Recent content by Brett

This isn't entirely true, at least not reliably (in my experience). I had one circuit using the bypass with 220nF and 47nF caps on the debounce portion that worked super well. I went ahead with those values and ordered a bunch of pre-assembled bypass boards. Those board exhibit the same problem...

My goodness dude…

Does it count if I’m still perfectly capable of making them sound bad?

I haven’t, but it’s because I’ve always done it this way and through experience, observation, and research, this is what works for me. Most of the time, my enclosure designs include white or some color (not just black). Adding a white layer is the easiest way I’ve found to have colors render as...

Continued from previous post... 5. Once you have your thermal settings entered for the pad on the new footprint, you'll need to set general settings. I like to hide all text from the footprint for something like this. Also be sure that you follow the settings in the bottom right of the window...

As promised, here's a workaround solution for you, @temol: *images added as thumbnails, click to enlarge. 1. Head over to the Footprint Editor Utility. 2. Create a new Library. 3. Now we'll select the new library we named in the previous step and we're going to add a new footprint, name...

This should be possible, @temol. I’ll test an idea for a workaround here in a bit. I’ll report back if it’s successful.

R8 looks like a tapering resistor. You'd just omit it if using the stock Jan Ray value for volume (B10K). Do not jumper the pads for R8.

If you decide to go down this route and try to build the Jan Ray on the Termina board, the value you have for C1 should be 47nF, not 47pF. You have R9 and R10 swapped around. R9 should be 9.1KΩ and R10 should be 7.5KΩ. I think that the rest of the values look okay. You may consider leaving the...

Sorry, I forgot about this... A. Connect to input jack tip B. Connect to 9VDC supply C. Connect to circuit board IN D. Connect to circuit board -/GND E. Connect to Cathode of LED or SW pad on PedalPCB board. Assumes LED Anode is connected to 9VDC through current limiting resistor (typically...

The board in picture 1 is the Basic Relay Bypass (Latching). Docs: Build Documentation If you ordered the Intelligent Relay Bypass Module, you were sent the wrong board. The Basic DPDT isn't as smart. Really though, the full rundown is on the product page for the Intelligent DPDT. The...

Looks like the bottom pads are for the regular LED. I think you could omit the rate if you wanted. You could also mount it on the component side (instead of through the front panel) if in doubt.

Fingers crossed we get a Boneyard Bosch front load washing machine project soon... My Maytag has seen better days... :ROFLMAO: This circuit looks interesting. I've been quietly watching its progress. I'd offer to design a board, but it seems you already have two candidates that are more than...

Yes it does! Which JFET did you end up selecting for Q1? Edit: Nevermind, I found it in your build report!

Looking good! You might check to see if your EDA has a remove copper islands feature. I see a couple on the bottom corners.