Yes I can see that. What was confusing me I guess is that it said it's based on the tagboardeffects version. Which has two 1uf electros and the filter cap. The rest look like film and ceramic. I only saw one 1uf listed there so that's what I was asking about but now I realize my mistake with that.
The problem you're having (and it is not in my capacity to fix) is that you're not grasping that the part numbers like C1, R7, etc. correspond to the silkscreen on the circuit board of the EHX Big Muff I purchased. The changed parts values (like changing a 1u capacitor to 100n) came from the tagboard effects layout and how it differs from the Big Muff I purchased. I even provided the parts types I used. I mentioned those facts within that post, so rereading my post and thinking about that would have answered your question ...I did read your post. That's why I'm asking. I'm not an electronics genius. I know enough to do mods and basic stuff. I'm here to learn like everyone else. In the future I'll make sure not to comment on anything you post seeing as you obviously don't want to be bothered. Thanks for "keeping the knowledge free" and insinuating I'm an idiot too.
I'm not cracking it back open just to check this but I want to say they're already 1u. Any decision to use electrolytic when a film cap of the same value is available is directly related to there already being an electrolytic in that position on the big muff thus the lead spacing on the circuit board is perfect for another electrolytic to be in there.
The only problem is that I asked a question to someone that didn't want to be asked one. (And it is not in my capacity to know who doesn't want to be bothered). I understand all that about the part numbers and the ehx PCB, and I realized my mistake with the 1uf cap. I understand now the parts listed are what you used. All I was asking before was if the listing of "(50v electrolytic)" was the part type that you used in your actual build. The few places I can get parts from don't typically have 100n electrolytics. I know I can probably find them on google somewhere or just use film caps but that's the only reason I asked. Just wanted to know if you were listing the types that were removed to be replaced or if that's what actually went in your pedal...that's all. I didn't actually expect you to take it apart and check.
The only problem is that I asked a question to someone that didn't want to be asked one. (And it is not in my capacity to know who doesn't want to be bothered). I understand all that about the part numbers and the ehx PCB, and I realized my mistake with the 1uf cap. I understand now the parts listed are what you used. All I was asking before was if the listing of "(50v electrolytic)" was the part type that you used in your actual build. The few places I can get parts from don't typically have 100n electrolytics. I know I can probably find them on google somewhere or just use film caps but that's the only reason I asked. Just wanted to know if you were listing the types that were removed to be replaced or if that's what actually went in your pedal...that's all. I didn't actually expect you to take it apart and check.
So far every person I've come across on this board has been friendly and helpful so I guess I was bound to annoy at least a few here with my egregious questions. Nice to meet you too! Hope everyone has a great week!
Or like using mainly linear pots when a different taper would be better because they buy in bulk and are cheap AF
Or like writing “whatever the hell we have on hand at the time” across the schematic in red white and blue crayon…Or like using mainly linear pots when a different taper would be better because they buy in bulk and are cheap AF
I'm convinced some of the 70s pedals I've owned or worked on were built without schematic with the amount of parts tacked on to the solder side.
