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Awesome build! Just finished one myself and the SF side is crazy. The Bias knob seems to bring in some crazy noises. Not quite oscillation, almost feels like it’s reaching for a radio station at some settings. I originally used the gains on the original SF (which the very low, under 100 on...

The TC1 is a fantastic tester and not just because of the $20 price tag. I find myself using the TC1 way more often than my DCA75. It’s just quicker and I’ve not had any issues with accuracy over the past few years of using them. I’ve probably purchased four of them -still less than one DCA75.

Why are you dressed like a bumblebee and why do you look like Indianapolis Jones?!

Dual Loft still in the works?

I’ve built two, both work great.

I think I’ll give that a shot. I probably should have prefaced by saying that I’m trying to slightly reduce brightness in a way that keeps the overall sound/feel of the circuit intact. Thank you!

I’ll give it a shot, thanks!

If I wanted to make the circuit a bit less bright, say by 25% or so, what would be the best way to accomplish that? Thanks for any help! https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Cobbler-PedalPCB.pdf

Thanks. I must be misremembering the size of the TL019. Appreciate the confirmation! Edit: Ah yes, I see know the TL019 is a few mm smaller than the TM019. I’m hoping it’ll fit in the same footprint, we’ll see. :)

Pretty sure EU has banned products containing lead, so you’d probably have to use lead free solder, among other component considerations. It may be more trouble than it’s worth, but it certainly wouldn’t hurt to look into it.

Just used my last TL019’s and have a Tactical Fuzz to build. I’ve got a few TM019’s and was wondering if those would have any audible difference? The difference I’m seeing so far is in the primary resistance (M is 600 ohms and L is 450 ohms), would that have any impact using them as a pickup...

My apologies. I rarely speak (or type) technically.

You can get hfe and leakage from a $20 TC1 tester. As a plus, they test closer to the voltages we see in our builds, as opposed to the DCA75, which tests a bit hotter. https://a.co/d/eGIdimb

That’s a different part number. Good to know, if that one works! Thanks. Just looking at the data sheet, looks like they’re a direct match aside from the max operating temps.

Seems the converter needed for this build (IAB0105D12) is now obsolete. I did happen to notice Newark had 20+ of them in stock now for under $3 a piece. If you’re planning on building one of these, maybe a good idea to pick one up...

Please excuse my ignorance. Does this mean I can hook it up the positive and negative to either of the ~ ~? In other words, does it matter which ~ the positive goes in, as long as the negative goes in the other ~? Looking at the schematic, it sort of appears that way. Thank you kindly.

That’s got to be it, all coming down to your local workers. I always opt for DHL, they have been far and away more consistent for me. I’ve even paid an extra few $ to have it shipped with DHL, as those always get here on the announced delivery date, but usually a day earlier.

Recently had this same thing happen and it was a bad LM258P from mouser. I’ve built a handful of these with no issue whatsoever. On my last build of two, one worked perfectly and the other not so much. Didn’t seem to be any modulation and signaled dies when Mix turned fully CW. Long story...

Thank you for the detailed answer. I really appreciate that. Best to you and yours!

Of course. I have it socketed just in case. I was just curious why R6 and not R8. I socketed both to see for myself. Figured I’d also ask. https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/CarbonBlack.pdf