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+1 same. i first got the idea when i saw your builds. and i feel its absolutely worth it when shit goes wrong. yes desoldering isn’t hard, but when you’re at that stage of the build and getting thrown by an error, being able to just pull the whole thing out is pretty valuable and absolutely...

depends on the circuit. and depends on the stripboard layout design. some designs are shit. some are good. but overall, not a huge difference IME. as above. breadboard builds are usually the most prone to noise vs. stripboard (vero) or PCB build as above. it depends. stripboard is a lot more...

good point. i guess when you've got plated thru-hole, it becomes less necessary.

my bad. it's a fair question though. marshall did it all over their boards the benefit? other than reinforcement, - perhaps helps keep the wires pushed against the chassis (for less noise?) rather than flying around vertically.. - durability for future maintenance? i wouldn't say it's...

my guess is it relieves stress for the builder, more so than the wiring.

fuck yeah. great work

anyway here's the end result: (build thread)

fuck yeah. this is on my breadboard list. if i like the circuit, i'll probably build it with this layout. cheers 🤙

as discussed in one of @Ginsly ‘s threads about opamp muffs, i tried a few of them and none of them really seemed to be that exciting or exceed what i enjoyed about my EHX V5 opamp muff build, but this one was really good and seems to be a bit of a sleeper. As this circuit introduces some...

i like your suggestion, it's a good solution to avoid the diagonal, but unfortunately the 22K would then be immediately adjacent to/'rubbing' against' the 47K - which would be a technical foul - cos these 1/2W resistors kinda need to have an empty row/column between each one for enough...

everywhere? what about https://www.sabrotone.com/noisy-cricket/ https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/noisy-cricket-mkii.html

nuisance socket strikes again :p

update: there was x1 error in the previous layout. (found out the hard way on this build attempt) easy fix. diagonal jumper isn't ideal, but it works so i'm happy. now verified 🥳 confirmed 34 wide does fit well in a 1590BB/BB2, but it is tight. (evidence)

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8-pin-dip-ic-socket-machine-tooled.html

mine didn’t. with all knobs cranked, no oscillation / no squeal.

yep, aionfx docs are great for those little bits of extra info. as discussed on your zonk thread, zonk = MkI tonebender. (mkI, mkII, mkIII are all quite different from each other, with mkI being the worst in every way)

I'm assuming you're pondering the right transistor for Q3? the front end is essentially a MkIII tone bender. here's some good advice on the MkIII: (aionfx) (fuzzdog) note: the bias control pot will affect Q3 idle bias voltage, so i guess it's probably best to have it set in the centre when...

ayy thanks 🤙 it's bit of a slog to finish, but will be well worth it in the end!