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hell yeah brutha 🤟🏻 love these ptp / dead bug builds. keep it up man, looks like you’re getting better at them

i would but i’m about 4.9 thousand miles from my workbench atm. i’ve got a tip for ya though, look up the pinouts for the BS170 and carefully examine where these are located. S - goes to ground G - goes to vol, pin 1 (and x3 other components) D - goes to a resistor tied to Vcc (and x2 other...

heck yeah, those labels look great. so much nicer than sharpie on a pink bag. same here, building less pedals, but trying out way more circuits than ever before - with some inspiring enough to actually build that i would have otherwise not bothered with.

yeah not this time :censored: genuinely, my intention is to encourage folks to try breadboarding things for better results, but usually this just results in hurt feelings. do i at least get a banana sticker for shutting the fuck up this time?

🤐

well, i went over it again and i couldn't find any errors, so i'd say it's good to go. attached version with components removed/layout of trace cuts and jumpers. (no changes to the initial layout above)

1) its hard to tell from these photos whether there are any errors, or potential inadvertent solder bridge shorts, as most of these are not well focused. this looks like a short (but im guessing it's just a big blob..) 2) we need to see the other side of the board. 3) it is difficult to...

with water under a tap

note, these Ge diodes here aren’t necessarily clippers. ive been told here that they’re intended to serve as a crude noise gate.

look for D9E or other D9x diodes or 1N270 or any other Ge diode that measures around 0.33v it doesn’t have to be 1N34A

i haven't tried the ionosphere, but looking at the schematic, it only has x2 gain stages, so i'm not surprised this was your experience. regardless, i'm pretty impressed with this psi fuzz thing. i still need to double check this layout against the schematic when im fresh and not burnt out...

what about the skreddy muffs

yeah if you like the og opamp muff (however modified), i'd be surprised if you didn't dig the psi fuzz. will be curious to see how the moon / noctis fuzz compares https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb723/ it's certainly versatile. if you like that, you'll probably enjoy just about any muff that...

yeah idk why, massively overhyped imo. probably because the enclosures are big and pretty, sometimes with an aesthetic very similar to the og that it’s taken circuit design cues from. and they do look good, i love big box enclosures and i’d totally buy one if the circuit wasn’t so meh.

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/kineticfuzz/ - intentionally large layout for 1/2W size resistors and thicc caps - unverified (build pending)

ok so i finally got around to this one a couple weeks ago. holy crap. it’s the best opamp muff or fuzz i’ve tried yet. i was suspicious of the npn Ge addition, but turns out it’s awesome. and a heckin loud output. nothing i had tried previously could beat an og opamp muff, but this one does...

+1 breadboard the circuit. tbh breadboarding is actually easier than building a pedal of the same circuit. there’s no solder involved, so it’s really really really easy to fix an error. start with an LPB-1 and then go from there.

TL072 LF353 NE5532 LM1458 4558 literally any dual opamp will work. (personally i wouldn't bother with the OPA2134 for a drive circuit) as mentioned above, if you use an 8-pin IC socket (or build the circuit on a breadboard) you can then audition any one of these opamps to determine which you...

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/axial-ferrite-bead-76-ohm.html im guessing these will probably do it

no worries, we all have our errors 🤙