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have you considered trying some KR140UD1408? indicated as a soviet reverse engineered LM308, and after seeing drunk beaver's investigation with scope evidence, it looks pretty convincing that they behave identically. (have breadboarded a few of these against motorola & ns lm308hz and they sound...

if you drop that top string to A, there's a pretty good chance you'll activate the stargate and teal'c will give you a high five on the other side

nah the black looks good 👌

+1 Sheepylove Pelota2 (build report pending)

this one:

how do yours measure? i bought a bag of like ?20-30 D9D from somewhere a while ago and all of them measured up around 0.6-0.7 ..not the best for octave blocks, but goes alright for hard clipping i guess this is the way

do you mean the muffin factory? that's not anything like the fuzz factory muffin factory = big muff with a billion suprerfluous options. fuzz factory (aka PedalPCB Fuzz Foundry) = fuzz face with 5 knobs. there's also a deluxe version.

fuzz factory is fucken SIIIIIICK built one just recently.

my experience - with guitar amps at least - is that the V1 position is the most critical and affected by the choice of tube. (i would recommend starting there first before dropping unnecessary coin on a whole set) in high gain amps, this definitely still applies, but i’ve found it matters less...

D9E always gives me the specs i want but they're getting pricier and harder to get hold of. since then ive been looking to try alternatives.

yep. breadboard build is the glue trap. (starts in bypass as per usual and the glue trap is engaged first)

looks awesome. cyrillic labels suit it well 🤘🏻 there’s a direct comparison in the demo i did for the breadboard build if that’s any help

heck yeah star ground for the win 🤟🏻

i used: - x2 TL082 in the Qx positions that service the LFO stages (& output stage) - x1 TL072 for the input stages. - x3 4558s for the LDR stages. i would only suggest that it’s necessary to use a low current device like TL082, TL022 for the LFO stages to minimize LFO noise.

lol ok

real circuit or or pretend simulation?

not sure if useful - but i still have my breadboard build (didn't notice any oscillation at maximum fuzz)

imagine paying money for software... i prefer the analog version, it's kinda hard to hear graphical waveforms

not a problem. I recommend you start by posting a thread in the troubleshooting department ➡️ https://forum.pedalpcb.com/forums/troubleshooting/post-thread dont forget to include photos of the whole build, including close shots of both sides of the board. ay cheers :coffee: depends... if im...

heck yes. this is good to hear, still yet to build my brownout have you tried boosting it with an SD-1?