Search results

The difference there is that while I do sell 9V pedals, they are not 9V circuits, and the high voltage caps in my pedals are actually necessary.

Ah, that makes a lot more sense. I feel silly.

If you're using a 630V cap in a 9V circuit, it's never going to charge above 9V. The voltage rating pertains to the dielectric breakdown rating of the construction, it doesn't mean you're actually getting more electrons in there, just that it's possible to charge the cap to a higher voltage...

Are you looking for something to build or something to buy? If something to build, how complicated of a project are you looking for? If something to buy, what's your budget?

Manufacturers don't care, they'll fabricate it.

How many pedals are you planning to ship? I buy shipping boxes (in multiple sizes) from Uline, but obviously you have to buy them in bulk. I double box, so there's a white "pedal box" that the pedal fits snugly in while it's sitting on the shelf waiting to be shipped, and then there's a brown...

I mean I have obviously checked my circuit against the actual Noble, the only thing I'm missing is the B+ voltage, which I swear I wrote down somewhere but haven't been able to find since. The power supply will account for a lot of differences, especially when it comes to feel, but I will also...

@tdengineer thought this was a general electronics forum when he first signed up, so he's been posting every now and then about other stuff.

I have a 20W fiber laser (Xtools F1 Ultra) and tried a PCB once, but I wasn't able to get a usable result out of it. I saw a tutorial where someone with the same machine made a PCB, but all the comments were from people that tried it and weren't able to get it to work. I make PCBs at home with...

It's pretty much just like any other pedal build unless it doesn't work first try and you have to debug, then you need to be extra careful where your fingers are going. There shouldn't be any benefit to running it at 12V over 9V, but I've had people swear 12V sounds better, so use your ears for...

The Fdeck is one of the designs I used for inspiration for the variable HPF I put in my Finally v3, it's a great design. I'm not sure I could fit it into Grand Slampegg without going to a bigger box though.

I've been calling tee nuts hurricane nuts all this time, and it turns out hurricane nuts are something completely different. I'm learning things.

Adjusting the cap isn't going to change the corner, the passive RC filter is only going to give you -6dB/octave no matter what you choose. If you need a steeper slope you're going to need an active filter.

E4305 is back in stock, so all PCBs with D.I. are available with transformer included again.

Yeah I've been getting mixed assembly (mostly SMD with through-hole film caps) for a while now, but last month was my first time trying a 100% through-hole board. It's funny how much you save without feeder loading fees, setup fees, stencil fees, etc.

Yeah I have a friend that had a through-hole design he wanted set up for JLC assembly and I was shocked at how much cheaper it was than my usual SMD boards (which admittedly use a large number of weird extended parts).

Have you tried running the Nobelium by itself without the other pedals in the chain? Daisy chaining power with tube pedals can sometimes lead to noise issues.

What power supply are you using with it?

What you need is called a net tie. Make a new component with a via-sized footprint and connect both nets to it on your schematic. Net ties are useful when you need to keep connections between two nets limited to one point, like controlling digital and analog ground on mixed-signal designs...