Recent content by slacjs

Looks like it was the pt2339. Swapped it out and it seems to work, though I can see why people don't like these ICs. I've had to try a few until I found one that sounded decent.

Thanks for your advice. I've had a quick go. I'm getting a strong echo signal at pin 6 of IC1 and IC4, and pin 13 of IC5. I'm not sure where else I should be checking. I'm getting very faint signals on pin 3 of the brick, or 5. Not really sure where else I should be looking.

I wrote a big post explaining what I've tried and checked, then realised I've plugged into 18v. I'm not getting any wet signal. Have I fried my belton? Anything else that might be gone? I've replaced IC3 and IC6 and I'm still only getting a dry signal. Thanks.

What libraries are people using?

I find flux makes a huge difference when using wick.

500k should be fine, it’s just twice as hard to get the exact resistance as a 250k. 200k would work as long as the required resistance isn’t over 200k.

I mostly play blues, rock or metal. In an ideal world, I'd buy a nice fender but I'm looking at what I can make or get for cheaper before I start thinking about that kind of thing. Katana looks interesting but it starts at 600ish USD here in Korea. I'll have a look at both of these suggestions...

I currently have a 15watt Line 6 spider that I've probably had for 15 years and it doesn't play nicely with pedals. I'm wondering what my options are if I only want to spend a few hundred USD. I've had a few thoughts and I'd like other people's input. I've thought about going for a pedal in a...

The blue part near the power jack are where you would put the + and - wires, the other wires would go in near the bypass toggle switch. At the top of this board you can find + and -. the bottom is in, gnd, sw, and out.

You would wire the + and - at the top for power and the 4 connectors at the bottom, in, gnd, sw, and out. AFAIK you wouldn't need to wire up the jacks ground wire usually found to either side of the + and - connections at the top of a board.

If it's not specified, use 1/4w.

For film capacitors, you want to look at the lead spacing. You usually want 5mm, I think these are usually 100v. Higher voltages might be too thick or the lead spacing might be too big. These will both work, I use the cheap ones and haven't had a problem but some people prefer the more expensive...

Electrolytic capacitors have a positive and negative side which won't be marked on the board if that place was intended for a film capacitor, so you'll have to figure that out and ensure they're oriented correctly. Which type you get depends on how the board was designed, which usually comes...

You can use almost any power jack you want, as long as you can get 9v into it. Usually, a 2.1mm jack like this one is used with the center being negative: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch.html Big list of switches. You want a 3PDT switch...

Tayda is from the centre point of whatever side you're doing.