Recent content by Betty Wont

I’m curious about that part too. A monolithic ferrite bead maybe?

The dc jacks. I’m not super familiar with those but it looks like you’re hooked up to the switching lugs not the positive lugs.

Looks like you’re positive wires are on the wrong lugs.

I’d go 1k on the clr, and 20k for the trim. I use clear red leds with 10k as standard. That set up would go from blinding to dashboard dim.

I’ve had problems in the past living in an urban area getting my DHL‘s. But now that I’m out in a rural spot, they hit me every time.

You requested that they CAN afford it?!?! 😂

You probably would have to build the whole thing again using low profile parts and drilling the holes for the new set up. I don’t think you’ll be able to shoehorn it in there as it is, maybe if you inverted the muffler board so that they face component to it component. It would be much simpler...

Love it!! As far as the cut switch, I usually omit it. The values on the schematic have little impact on tone. Instead of 470pf and 2.2nf, I use 4.7nf and 22nf. Great for muted brass fuzz and bass. I also use an on-off-on spdt so that the middle position is no-cut.

You want NPN, not PNP. Perhaps a simpler project….

Are you positive that C1 is a 220 PF not a 220 NF?

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/bayonetfuzz/ This one does it all for me. Heavy, loud, and tight.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/monolithic-ceramic-capacitor/1-uf-50v-multilayer-monolithic-ceramic-capacitor-x7r-jym-5705.html

It is an adjustment that nulls out the carrier when not playing. Set it to where you get the most sustain vs least noise. Or to taste.

All of Tayda enclosures I’ve gotten that I couldn’t get the screws in were obstructed by pieces of casting or milling metal that got stuck in there after threading. I’ve been able to tease all of them out with a Swiss Army knife awl and canned air, and the threads were fine.

In order from lowest to highest value.