Recent content by xayk

Thanks @music6000, @Chuck D. Bones, and @dunkindonuts for the assist. Good to know (for me and future builders), and good to get some solid troubleshooting in.

@music6000 - I did stick a 47nF cap in parallel w/ the 22nF, no audible change. Appreciate the suggestion. I went resistor-by-resistor, comparing w/ the (very handy!) resistor calculator. All checked out, with 2x 560k resistors subbed for the 562k. Can't imagine that's where the problem is, but...

Thanks @music6000 - your diagram is spot-on except for R11, where the circles are swapped (aqua on top, red on bottom.) But with that, all points connect as expected. R10 and R11 are the proper values, and since I pulled them from cut tape, I verified via DMM that the others in my stash are the...

Update: tested and reviewed for noticeable bad/cold solder joints, touched up one or two though they still had expected connectivity. Nothing bridged visibly or connecting unexpectedly via DMM. Bass pot leg 3&2 connect to Treble leg 1 and C17 C17 connects to C18 and R11 R11 connects to Q4...

I'll give it the once-over tomorrow and report back, thankee.

Thanks @Chuck D. Bones, appreciate the guidance. Bass pot, without power, measures 1M across pins 1 and 3 with knob fully clockwise. (And close to zero counter-clockwise.) Reading through the various Mofeta threads, I had the trimmers set around 12v for drain on Q1, Q2, and Q3. But I revisited...

Weird little issue with a Mofeta build. Volume works, both channels work, mid and treble work, pedal overall sounds like I'd expect. But the bass control does next to nothing. I swapped out a guitar in E standard for a bass in A standard (lulz), but nothing. Assuming my damaged ears were the...

I've used/am using a T-Rex Fuel Tank (which had one port die but has been otherwise solid for 10-odd years), an Aetos (rock solid but current is a little limited with today's modern digital pedals), and the Eventide-branded Cioks DC7. The Cioks is unfuckwithable, running a bunch of digital...

Something like a re-amplifier should work: https://www.diyrecordingequipment.com/products/l2a I built one recently and haven't had a reason to use it yet, but that's it's thing: taking a line out from an interface and making it play nicely with pedals.

I fixed a friend's SD-9 and kinda fell in love. Into it.

I don't think the PAiA kit has been in stock for the last few years. Or it sells out instantly! Experimentalists Anonymous has schematics (and PCB/layout) for a 10-band analog vocoder in their OOP Japanese Electronics Book section—the main board, a board to handle frequency, a power supply and...

None anymore. Haha. Was mostly low-level patches and small shirt runs for bands and local businesses. Kinda miss it. w/r/t etching - I was thinking mostly about ink opacity, but now I kinda wonder how something like the Ultra Black would impact the transfer itself. I haven't done THAT in a...

If you're still unhappy: https://www.caseyspm.com/c/cpm/cat/Fixative.html I used that quite a bit to make sure my DIY screen printing transparencies were solid black, which helped with exposure. Note that since it's essentially "melting" the ink be careful spraying too much around fine lines...

Probably not, but that's how the circuit was laid out. Looking at the schematic I can take a safe guess as to how 2.2uf polarized caps probably SHOULD be oriented, but I'm trying to reduce my stress and future troubleshooting. Heh. This is a preamp-to-pedal project and the mfg used non-polar...

I'm building up a non-PedalPCB pcb which calls for a handful of 2.2uf non-polarized caps which are in the audio path. Of all the parts I don't have laying around, a bunch of 2.2uf non-polarized caps is high on the list. I *do* have enough 2.2uF MLCCs, however. (I could probably use polarized...