Recent content by youngkong10

That was it! There was a burn mark on the input cable and it must have restricted the signal too much or something, sounds great now thank you everyone!!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, the cap in the corner is a 560pf MLCC. I have already tried the pedal entirely out of the enclosure but it sounds the same. I am testing the pedal by itself. I'll try cutting some new wires for the jacks and see if that helps next, and I'll let you know here.

Here are the finished pictures, same issue... I tried swapping out the j201 as well to no avail.

No... you guys. You've got it wrong. The footswitch never worked like this, this was a photo taken mid switch change. I said in the original post "note that the 3pdt in/gnd/sw/out wires are disconnected because I was in the middle of resoldering the switch.". The j201 is the smd one from...

No no you misunderstand, the connections are soldered properly I just took the photo in the middle of swapping the switch out. I tried to say that in my original post. I used different wires, a different breakout board, and a different switch as well as checking continuity to make sure that...

The 3pdt is not the issue, I not only swapped it for a new switch but I also used my DMM to check continuity for each wire, and to check that there was no continuity between them. Do you have any ideas of what it could be outside the switch wiring?

I'm having an issue with the Pro-10 Green Overdrive I just built, the pedal seems to work fine when on, but has serious treble/volume loss in bypass. I already tried reflowing the jacks and changing the 3pdt for a fresh one with a new board. Same issue though. I checked all the resistors with a...

When I was some lower output single coils I didn't get any clipping no matter how hard I could strum, but with some slightly higher output custom shop pickups I would get a distinct hard clipping crackle when I strummed hard. This issue is seemingly gone with the C11 value change I did. Thanks...

Oh okay! That's interesting because those were the values I had originally. With those values I was having some hard clipping issues and a very dark tone sweep for the first 75% of the filter knob. Any ideas what could have been causing this?

I recently built a six string stinger and I used smd j201's from the pedalpcb website, everything sounded close to correct but the filter knob was unusable for 90% of the sweep. I found another forum post from a while ago stating that C11 should be 22nf instead of 2.2nf and it was apparently...

I have a sea horse from a while back that I was changing the pt2399 on, and somehow during that process the lfo has stopped working properly. Like the other similar troubleshooting forums on here I get only delay (and some modulation when moving the knobs) but I seem to be the first person to...

I would take a look at the led's right next to the shape switch. I used 2.2uf mlcc capacitors instead as recommended by the admin in the original pedal request thread for the Julia. I'm sure it could be a lot of things but I know that those two leds are part of the waveshaping in the lfo.

Well that definitely isn't right, if you post pics or start a fresher thread I'm sure it will get figured out.

Try turning all the knobs all the way up and playing with the shape switch. It should go from a smooth and intense vibrato sound to a pretty harsh and jagged sounding effect.

Oh wow yeah I just changed everything back and added the new cap value and it sounds beautiful. Thanks so much!