Battery power supply

(sorry for adding to the tangent - please feel free to ask me to delete my replies) I was just asking about the isolator part in general, not necessarily for the same applications

No! Not my intention to shame you. This is awesome conversation.

Yes, if you require isolation from a module, you'll need a transformer.
 
Not how I read ya at all @Big Monk! Just wanted to clarify what I was asking :) Bummer that DIYing wouldn't save enough money to make it seem worthwhile (at least for my wallet / desire to have one)
 
So, inspired by this thread, I used a 9v snap that I soldered to an old barrel plug years ago that I accidentally wired reverse polarity, then stuck it on an ACTUAL reverse polarity cable that came with my power supply, and tested my 2 Germanium fuzzes with a carbon zinc battery I had in my 9V stash.

There was definitely a small difference between power supply and battery. There was a quality to the fuzz that was a little grungier and messier, which sounded cool. Not a mind-blowing experience, mind you, but it is also a fairly new battery.

I think when i design my Tonebender MK I/Zonk! and Tonebender MK III/Buzzaround/Dizzy Tone boards, i'll also design a compact voltage sag/series resistance board as well to test.

I like the idea of "cloning" a carbon zinc battery and it's qualities without having to use batteries.
 
I think the discussion is very interesting, so I'm eager to see how it develops.
Before building this contraption, I've also investigated virtual batteries, then eventually decided it would have been much simpler to use real batteries rather than trying to simulate their effects. This is, however, something that I'd like to research further in the future.
 
I think the discussion is very interesting, so I'm eager to see how it develops.
Before building this contraption, I've also investigated virtual batteries, then eventually decided it would have been much simpler to use real batteries rather than trying to simulate their effects. This is, however, something that I'd like to research further in the future.

Well, the crux here is that real batteries die eventually. Also, I hate batteries. As a parent, my hate for batteries comes from the sheer amount I've used in the first 8 years of parenthood and also by my lack of understanding, whether on purpose or not, of how waste batteries are handled.

If a battery simulator can be made to ape all the good things about batteries in these fuzz circuits, without waste, and frankly with more tweakability, then I'm game.

The advantage of a tweakable battery simulator is as follows:

1.) Control over voltage;
2.) Control over simulated battery impedance;
3.) Control over simulated battery capacitance

With a battery, your stuck with the electrochemical properties of the battery itself. By modelling these things as independent parameters, you can tweak the sound to be perfect for each device.

My rough idea in my head is for a single 9v input feeding 4 separate battery sim circuits feeding up to 6 devices. An ON-ON-ON DPDT could switch in 1 Diode, 2 Diodes in series, or no diodes for voltage drop, A potentiometer used for series resistance, and an ON-ON-ON switch for some different capacitance values.

This way, you could essentially set it as a fresh battery, slightly depleted, and almost dead and do so for each device.
 
Neodymium magnets epoxied into key locations of the lid and base would allow tool-free battery swaps for the project, yet still be plenty secure with the appropriate magnets...

PS: Hammond also has flanged mountings that might make things easier to change batteries depending on how you set it up...
1590-f-closed.jpg
Spot Welded bottom flanges






1590fl-black-closed.jpg
Lid-integrated wall-mount flanges
 
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That is really cool! I just bought of the Vertex ones recently.

Apparently, there might be a PCB of one of these on the way.
 
So, inspired by this thread, I used a 9v snap that I soldered to an old barrel plug years ago that I accidentally wired reverse polarity, then stuck it on an ACTUAL reverse polarity cable that came with my power supply, and tested my 2 Germanium fuzzes with a carbon zinc battery I had in my 9V stash.

There was definitely a small difference between power supply and battery. There was a quality to the fuzz that was a little grungier and messier, which sounded cool. Not a mind-blowing experience, mind you, but it is also a fairly new battery.

I think when i design my Tonebender MK I/Zonk! and Tonebender MK III/Buzzaround/Dizzy Tone boards, i'll also design a compact voltage sag/series resistance board as well to test.

I like the idea of "cloning" a carbon zinc battery and it's qualities without having to use batteries.
I'm curious what kind of power supplies people are using and if this is having an effect. I have a nice Cioks DC7 and I notice marginal, if any, difference in tone with my DIY or manufactured pedals. Wondering if cheap MXR and old Voodoo power supplies are the cause for all the noise and difference in tone. As mentioned before, battery sag really changes the sound. But if we can emulate that, why not save and not waste?
 
First of all, great build!

Not to sidebar, but when people say "they sounded better with batteries...", do they mean noise? Overall tone?

I've been building fuzzes for some time and started out adding battery connections to all that I built so that I could test both. I've never noticed a difference using batteries. Maybe it's just me?
Reminded me of this, Build from around 2012.
Boss style 9v In power jack & does what is says '' 9 Volts all the way down to 1.8v ''
What they now call a Bias knob on Fuzz pedals!


VOLTSTAVA  Alumina Converter ( 9v down to 1.8v - Tip)  .jpg
 
I still don’t quite understand why batteries affect the sound of a fuzz, @Big Monk you said you found an article on the topic? This is fascinating!
 
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The drill template will also have markings for holes in the event you want to secure the standoffs to the enclosure, but as you can see from Figs build, it looks cleaner without them.

They should be here soon, they're on the way.
 
The drill template will also have markings for holes in the event you want to secure the standoffs to the enclosure, but as you can see from Figs build, it looks cleaner without them.

They should be here soon, they're on the way.

I’ve got an XC Phase, DMD-2 and Muffin in the cart ready to go when these come in! I need one for the Monk Face.
 
What size standoffs did you use?
I used 20mm on one side and 5mm on the other. I imagine several combinations with the same total would work. Robert pointed out that smarter people would have painted the other side of the enclosure for convenience when changing the battery. (y)
 
I used 20mm on one side and 5mm on the other. I imagine several combinations with the same total would work. Robert pointed out that smarter people would have painted the other side of the enclosure for convenience when changing the battery. (y)
Thanks. I suppose those are standard M3 threads.
 
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