MBP sludgehammer

[Paradox916]

In my quest to build a wall of tone rig, (not that I need a gig-able rig, and I doubt I will ever play in front of any one again) I wanted to split my signal and be able to dial in the bass/bottom end of my seven string, the Sludge Hammer seemed like the ticket. It’s a tight fitting build, you have to bring your A game with the drill… seriously there is no room for error with the top jacks. It easy to make some mistakes on this build, don’t let it fool you. All in all a fun build that can be a bit of a challenge to try and up your game

 

[Harry Klippton]

those wire bends

 

[Paradox916]

View attachment 29801

Slow and steady wins the race

 

[Paradox916]

those wire bends

It’s tedious as hell but I like where this is going.

 

[blackhatboojum]

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

Radi-cool

 

[MichaelW]

That looks awesome! And intimidating!

How are you running this? DI direct into your interface? (I mean 7-string->Pedals-Sludge->interface?)

 

[Paradox916]

That looks awesome! And intimidating!

How are you running this? DI direct into your interface? (I mean 7-string->Pedals-Sludge->interface?)

I haven’t had a chance to do much more than a functional check. But my Idea at the moment is guitar > comp >Sludge Hammer balanced out >interface(1) direct out > to existing pedal chain> to interface(2) live I would swap the interface with a passive mixer to an amp or two separate amps. That’s at least the idea.

 

[cwsquared]

Hot damn, that is some nice work. I think @thewintersoldier said it best.

 

[Deperduci]

space is tight, I normally just 'eyeball' the bit and go next size up for 'wiggle' after using the auto-punch through the paper but this 1, at least the top may want to glue/tape the template in place. when I get around to acquiring this 1, I might even go for the lumberg's to gain some room even though the chaining of grounds with a wire using that style is handy.

 

[Harry Klippton]

It's bussin ong fr fr

 

[fig]

Knockin’ it out! Love it!

 

[benny_profane]

I might even go for the lumberg's to gain some room even though the chaining of grounds with a wire using that style is handy.

This build requires insulated jacks to implement the ground lift.

 

[Paradox916]

It's bussin ong fr fr

Had to look this up to figure out what you just said

 

[Deperduci]

This build requires insulated jacks to implement the ground lift.

I have some .080 sheet plastic left over from making pick guards to insulate the flats and then 2 coats of poly varnish in the holes or would use a 3d print box with toggle instead of stomp 3pdt. but with that said, the other benefits from using the insulated switch jacks are likely worth the location efforts. I don't gig so for my personal usage this 1 won't be on the floor. I should have added that to my previous posting, I know I know, bad nerd, no donuts!

 

[benny_profane]

I have some .080 sheet plastic left over from making pick guards to insulate the flats and then 2 coats of poly varnish in the holes or would use a 3d print box with toggle instead of stomp 3pdt. but with that said, the other benefits from using the insulated switch jacks are likely worth the location efforts. I don't gig so for my personal usage this 1 won't be on the floor. I should have added that to my previous posting, I know I know, bad nerd, no donuts!

The printed box would allow you to use metal jacks. Even while accounting for the mechanical stress by replacing the stomp with a toggle, my concern would be about shielding and there would be no way to implement the ground lift circuitry. If you run into issues, the insulated jacks are very forgiving of over-drilling is required.

EDIT: I have no experience trying to insulate enclosure drill holes with varnish, but I think I would avoid that since failure seems rather probable.

 

[Deperduci]

could be, I'm also reading the documentation. his words "If you are including the Balanced out option, you’ll need an SPDT switch and ground isolated jacks (three TR and one TRS)' and " If you are not using the Balanced output option, you do not need the SPDT switch. You can also use any style 1/4” jack. You’ll need up to three (Input, Direct Out, Output). Note, DirectOut is also optional and does not have to be used." from the build pdf. being home, not gigging, use I may skip the balanced output. as for varnish, been working inside wire wound transformers since... Tesla was working for Edison. I've got a couple insulated switch jacks left over from trying to add an effects loop option to MBP's Current Lover, I can't get the nuts tight enough or that may have just been that set since I got them from tayda instead of LMS. anywho for most people do stick to what the build docs say, what I'm doing is for ME and ME only

 

[Paradox916]

could be, I'm also reading the documentation. his words "If you are including the Balanced out option, you’ll need an SPDT switch and ground isolated jacks (three TR and one TRS)' and " If you are not using the Balanced output option, you do not need the SPDT switch. You can also use any style 1/4” jack. You’ll need up to three (Input, Direct Out, Output). Note, DirectOut is also optional and does not have to be used." from the build pdf. being home, not gigging, use I may skip the balanced output. as for varnish, been working inside wire wound transformers since... Tesla was working for Edison. I've got a couple insulated switch jacks left over from trying to add an effects loop option to MBP's Current Lover, I can't get the nuts tight enough or that may have just been that set since I got them from tayda instead of LMS. anywho for most people do stick to what the build docs say, what I'm doing is for ME and ME only

Sounds interesting I look forward to seeing the build report!

 

[Deperduci]

nothing against tayda, they get parts from different manufacturers and tell you so on each page not from a specific maker, where I think LMS has only 1-2 suppliers, tayda rarely is out of stock but LMS does have out of stock days. different suppliers means different EXACT specs. I drilled a 5/16 hole, some jacks are 10mm others are 9/32. the TR jacks I have needed a .44in/11.5(.2 actually)mm hole vs the loose 1 I have from LMS for checking fit while drilling. the box I used might be thinnner as well, I have a couple 'cnc' grade boxes which have thinner side walls and the gap on most tayda for the wall are fine for standard, thicker walls. what works for me is a good chance does NOT work for the next 5 in line. I only harsh/neg criticize my own cranial flatulance. a fair number of my commentary posts should almost start with "don't try this at home until you see video that it actually worked and not changed my hair-do!"

sorry OP, that build certainly fornicates. and 1st time I bothered looking at the board was after winter's own build report with recordings and great pics of a tight, thematic build.

 

[Robert]

That's a nice looking build!

I wonder if we could find some sort of plastic bushings to isolate metal jacks from the enclosure on projects like these.