Bass Klon



Keep an eye out for a sale at Gollihur.

Here's the mag pup I'd like to try, Biesele:

bass6a.JPG



Oh yeah, with my Underwood, I only use the bass side pup, the treble side is tucked into foam — I still get plenty of click from slap.
Still, I'd like to one day experiment with a clicky, so I got a B-Band pickup ages ago. Still have yet to install it. Some day...
Am I the only one that immediately thought that would be a cool tattoo?
 
You can split the GAIN control into two B100K pots, CLEAN and DIRTY, it you like.
Chuck- I want to try my hand at designing another board and was going to make one based on your bass version with the gain controls split and maybe some other stuff. Is it as easy as following the schematic and simply replacing the dual with two? My hunch says yes, because that would make sense.
 
Yes. Two suggestions:
Look at the VFE Merman (PPCB Sea Monk) schematic for an example of splitting the GAIN control and other cool mods.
Post your schematic here for review.

And a warning:
The only stage that should saturate is the Dirty amp that drives the clipping diodes (Sea Monk IC2.2). All of the other opamps should have their gains set so that they do not saturate under any conditions. If you change any of the gains or rail voltages, then you need to check this.
 
You're kidding me right? Have you read any of my posts?
You used Aluminum Electrolytic for the two 47uF caps — is that because 47uF tantalum caps are stupidly expensive, or you didn’t have 47uF tantalum on hand, or do you generally use Electrolytic for large values like 47uF, 100uF, and 220uF?
Thx!
 
The 47uF caps are in the power supply, so aluminum is fine. I have some 47uF tant, but I tend to save those for when they're in the audio path. I'll use 100uF aluminum in the audio path when it's called for, such as the Screw Driver.
 
The 47uF caps are in the power supply, so aluminum is fine. I have some 47uF tant, but I tend to save those for when they're in the audio path. I'll use 100uF aluminum in the audio path when it's called for, such as the Screw Driver.
I see 47uF and 100uF in the power section. As a mere mortal and layman, should I just go for 47uF by default and only go up if I heard noise/oscillation?
 
Do you use tantalums from Tayda? Another pedal wizard I know has issued strong warnings against them. Wondering if you have any experience?
 
Do you use tantalums from Tayda? Another pedal wizard I know has issued strong warnings against them. Wondering if you have any experience?

So far no problems with Tayda tantalum. I did have trouble with some electronic Goldmine tantalums a few years back and they issued a refund.

I see 47uF and 100uF in the power section. As a mere mortal and layman, should I just go for 47uF by default and only go up if I heard noise/oscillation?
Bigger caps won't necessarily cure a noise or instability problem. You really need to understand the root cause before you can fix a problem. Sometimes bigger caps will cause a regulator to go unstable.
 
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