SOLVED Ash device issue weird interference.

PAGOON

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I just put together manias ash device which is a super simple board. Well I had a klon type enclosure around because I’m low on enclosures I used it but I had to use jumper wire from the pcb to the pots. I usually always use heat shrink on everything but I’m low on that also… so the issues with this pedal are a weird Squirrley Morse code beeping, interference sound and also the fuzz pot which is a B5K doesn’t work until about 90% of the pot is turned and then the fuzz comes on. I tested the fuzz pot with a ohm meter and the pot is working correctly..also this pedal has a trimmer or 10k trim pot. I set the bias on the 2n3904 and it only gave me voltage reading on the collector side… I’m also haven’t trouble with another pedal with a trim pot off course I’m beginning to hate pedals with trimmer!!! They seem to always give me problems. Also I don’t have a way of testing hfe. So I don’t know if my transistor’s are bad or out of sync or whatever… I also re soldered all the solders I thought may be cold soldered… im stumped.
 

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The fuzz knob is working better now… after the film capacitor mix up… still a really bad static sound… what is strange is that when I plug the pedal into my champion 110 amp it still makes that squealing like a little bit of like a beeping Morse code sound with a little bit of static but then when I put this pedal onto my other amplifier. I have a orange CR 120. It’s just wicked bad static isn’t that I odd?

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I’m not familiar with these boards but it looks like you have a solder bridge on one of your gnd points.
Yeah I did that thinking I had bad grounds. That shouldn’t matter they are connected. I’m wondering if I need to use sheilded
Wires … only mother things I can think may be wrong is the transistor’s or the electrolytic caps…
 
Oh yeah Q3:7.72v Q2:1.6v Q3:4.59 Q3 is selective most with the trim pot. Voltage was taken at the collector on each transistor…I can’t believe I’m having trouble with a simple build. I used a 4k3 resistor instead of a 4k6 and a 43k instead of a 46k resistor. I wouldn’t think that would matter much.
 

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This is a really basic thing, but do you have your cellphone anywhere near your guitar/pedal when testing? I have had the “Morse code beeping” on occasion and it’s almost always because my phone is close by especially while using high gain fuzz/distortion.
 
Yeah I know what you mean I’ve had that happen before when reading tabs off my phone but I wasn’t near any phones or computers but ring now I’m throwing in three new transistors and new electrolytic caps… I’ll keep ya posted I wish I had a cheap voltmeter to Check hfe I have a fluke 175 and I don’t know any other way.
 
Im running it near two power surge protectors I’m going into my other room to try it with my orange amp… it still does it after replacing transistors and capacitors… it must be the wires and the pots I order a pedal pcb version today… it’s sucks I only put those jumper wires from the pcb to pot’s because I had this klon pre drilled type enclosure around… oh well can’t wait to try this again. The pedal did sound better on my little amp and other guitar in my room I been building these pedals in… I think it’s time to take walk away till pedalpcb carbon black fuzz arrives
 

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This is a really basic thing, but do you have your cellphone anywhere near your guitar/pedal when testing? I have had the “Morse code beeping” on occasion and it’s almost always because my phone is close by especially while using high gain fuzz/distortion.
I wish I could post a short video… it’s strange
 

I removed the jumper leads and installed new pots and the noise changed it’s just really cloudy and static like…I double checked the resistors they look fine I had a flim capacitor in the wrong spots I fixed that I replace all electrolytic caps and it still sounds horrible… I even double soldered all the points everywhere…. The pedal pcb one is the carbon black fuzz I ordered that I hope I have luck with that…I didn’t have a 4k6 or 46k I used a 4k3 and a 47k I doubt that matters
 
I think you have a bad connection somewhere. Replacing good parts with more good parts isn't going to solve the problem.
It's all still mounted in the box, right?
If you unplug the input cable, do you still get the noise?
You listed Q3's voltage twice. what is Q1's collector voltage?
 
It’s all out out the box now… that’s a good question… I unplugged the input cable and the noise is still there… the Q3 thing was a typo I will edit that it’s 7.7v at Q1’s collector… I use a old Hakko dash with solder that a friend gave me a long time ago I can’t even read the size or ratio on the solder but I’m stumped… your right about throwing more parts at it… I bought a Desolder iron from jameco and it works great… I’m thinking I think the solder may be bad I’m going to clean and resolder the switch tomorrow.
 

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The IN & OUT wires on your switch board are not soldered properly. Solder should wick up into the strands and it's not. With stranded wire, I always pre-tin the wires before soldering them to anything. Keeps the strands from fraying and makes it easier to get a good solder joint. It's hard to tell from the pic, but the wire might be tarnished. That would explain why it won't take solder. Remove those wires from the board and tin them. Use flux if you have it. If the wire won't tin, then toss it and get some new wire.
 
Good tip I re did those purple ones and they are soldered on the other side I will wick from now on I always wondered that and thought they maybe cold solders I will re-do tomorrow morning thanks for your help I’m grateful for the pedal pcb community!
 
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