Low Tide - Bat48 Substitute
- Thread starter Stevohuff
- Start date
Brett
Well-known member
It's hard to say, but BAT48 is still in production so I'd stick to using the correct part.
I'd avoid Amazon for anything if at all possible, but certainly for things like transistors or ICs. If you're in a pinch and it doesn't make sense to order from somewhere like Mouser, AES, Stomp Box Parts, etc. you probably don't have a lot to worry about buying an in-production diode like this on Amazon. I don't think there's much reason to fake something like this. I believe it was @MichaelW who mentioned having decent luck with the Chanzon branded items on Amazon for a couple odds and ends.
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
I've ruled out Amazon for most things. Bought a spool of kester solder there once and it was fine. Also bought some dc jacks that were absolute garbage a few years ago. Hit and miss but mostly miss.
Yea I’ve done some utility purchases like solder and the copper wool stuff for the iron, never components.
I guess my inquiry is based on options beyond tayda/mouser - I didn’t see any BAT48 at stompboxparts or smaller outfits.
Any rec for decent shipping time frame on a batch of like 10?
US based
Ps - I have mouserphobia, or whatever it’s called when I’m presented too many options haha
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
D3 is the polarity protection diode so 5817/4001 etc are fine. I’d hazard a guess they’d be fine in d1/2 as well.
For D1/2, BAT46 should be fine.
1n34a is probably fine as well.
Really anything around 1Vf. Matching the Vf and C12/14 may be more important than the diode used. There's so much happening to that signal after those diodes, I doubt you'd here it but, and someone help me out because that schem is wild and I'm exhausted, if there's any octave up provided by those clippers, matching would be wise.
I'm guessing it's more about limiting signal level into the later circuits than anything else though.
Sorry just realized you answered my latest post - I have enough of 4001 for D1 - D3
Solid?
