OCD 1.2 Rehouse - help me not screw this up

[Lytt Effects]

Hey there, fine folks. One of my buddies has asked me to rehouse his OCD 1.2, which I am happy to do, but I need some help with the wiring. I think.

because the original power jack is hot glued into the enclosure, I’m not going to be able to get it out, so I’m going to need to replace it. We are also foregoing the battery snap, so I want to switch it up to standard Lumberg audio jacks as well, and also replace the footswitch. I have the OCD taken apart, and have most of the wiring figured out, but want to make sure so I don’t screw this up.

Pics:






When referencing things, I am looking at the PCB from the top. The pads for the wiring I will number 1-6 from left to right. The footswitch will be standard numbering 1-9 (1-2-3 left column, 4-5-6 middle column, 7-8-9 right column).

Pad 1 is GROUND, pad 4 is the PCB IN, pad 5 is the PCB OUT, and pad 6 is the + power. The IN pad goes to pin 5 on switch, OUT pad goes to pin 7. The TIP of the input jack goes to pin 4, which jumpers to pin 9, which creates the true bypass wiring. The ground pad goes to ground on the jacks, then to pin 6.

There are two more pads (2 and 3) that go to pins 2 and 3 (respectively). Pin 1 is left open. This is where I need help.

Basically, I want to switch it up to standard Lumberg power and audio jacks, no battery, and rewire it to be able to move the switch further down. Why can’t I wrap my brain around what’s going with pins 2-3 on the switch? Probably the beers I’ve had already. Help me wire this thing back up correctly so I don’t screw this up!

 

[Diynot]

Let’s start with the question, how good are your desoldering skills? The jacks should be an easy 1:1 switch just remember the slant side of the originals is the ground/sleeve terminal. The battery snap is easy enough since it can just stay attached to the power jack, just desolder the board connections off the power jack. The switch…….really I would just desolder the wires at the board and not the switch since that could be more easily damaged, then run some lengths of jumper wire from the board to the ends of the wires still attached to the switch. Be sure to cover the connections with shrink wrap

 

[Lytt Effects]

Let’s start with the question, how good are your desoldering skills? The jacks should be an easy 1:1 switch just remember the slant side of the originals is the ground/sleeve terminal. The battery snap is easy enough since it can just stay attached to the power jack, just desolder the board connections off the power jack. The switch…….really I would just desolder the wires at the board and not the switch since that could be more easily damaged, then run some lengths of jumper wire from the board to the ends of the wires still attached to the switch. Be sure to cover the connections with shrink wrap

De-Soldering skills are good enough, lol. Yes, the jacks are easy 1:1. I plan to desolder at the board for the wiring and then go to a new switch that is softer click (SBP pro series).

Where my confusion is lying is in the negative power side of things, plus what is going on with pads 2-3 on the PCB. Currently, the negative terminal on the power jack is going to the switched lug of the input jack. So, plugging something into the jack is what creates the ground connection. So when the switch is in the “down” position (2-5-8 is connected to 3-6-9), that’s true bypass, so what’s going on with pads 2-3 on the PCB that are connected to pins 2-3?

Moral of the story, if I’m not using switched jacks and switching them out for just standard old tip/sleeve jacks, do I still just star ground the negative side of the power jack and mimic the switch wiring with the board? Why isn’t my brain working?

 

[Diynot]

Usually switched/TRS/stereo jacks connecting ground is for battery use only and since you are getting rid of the battery clip, you just need to make sure that the negative pad on the board gets back to the ground lug of the new power jack either directly or by way of a star ground. Lugs 2-3 are probably just for the LED (make or break connection to ground). Look at any of the wiring schematics from the builds in the PPCB shop.