SOLVED Blue Shoe Gai Pan no sound when pedal is engaged

1stbsmn

New member
Does anyone know what voltage I'm looking for on the source and gate legs of the J201's in this pedal if I set the drain leg to 11.11V? I'm getting just over 2V on the source leg and about 1.6V on the gate leg. This seems low but I'm quite new to biasing Transistors so I just don't know. Also, if these numbers are wrong, would this cause my Pedal not to work and should I look for more reliable J201's. I'm pretty sure I bought them from amazon but I live in Italy so please don't judge. The pedal works in bypass so if I can't figure it out I could always use it as another mute switch. IMG_9330.jpg
 
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Does anyone know what voltage I'm looking for on the source and gate legs of the J201's in this pedal if I set the drain leg to 11.11V? I'm getting just over 2V on the source leg and about 1.6V on the gate leg. This seems low but I'm quite new to biasing Transistors so I just don't know. Also, if these numbers are wrong, would this cause my Pedal not to work and should I look for more reliable J201's. I'm pretty sure I bought them from amazon but I live in Italy so please don't judge. The pedal works in bypass so if I can't figure it out I could always use it as another mute switch.
I had a similar issue when building a Mofeta. It uses 2n5457's, and I ordered some from Amazon quite some time ago, before knowing about the massive fakes / badly spec'd components available (and before knowing just how rare the J201's in TO-92 have become).
Anyway, long story short, they would NOT bias belo 11.1v, no matter what. I purchased SMD versions, and put them on the SMD to Through hole conversion board and it worked perfectly.
As for my Blue Shoe Gai Pan build, I used Genuine J201's from Stewmac, and paid DEARLY for them... but they worked perfectly..

I would like to make a suggestion, based on the above picture though. You need to reflow several connections, one of which is the ground on the input side, it could come back to haunt you with the solder joint in that way. They should be shiny and form "Mount Fuji" as my Electronics teacher once told me., (It as funny, he was an amazingly funny Asian teacher, and loved to make cracks like that lol)
Also, your 3PDT foot switch, you need to solder that better as well, and make 100% contact. I uploaded one of mine for reference.
Little things like this can make a HUGE impact on the circuit.
What temperature do you have your iron set at? Personally, I have always used between 360c (680f) , and 371c (700f). A hot iron will ensure your solder flows perfectly, and you don't get cold solder joints.
If you need any help or suggestions, please don't hesitate to ask!
 

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