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cheers! for sure, its a great logical layout with sensible placements, especially with the input right on the bottom row. thanks! lately i’ve been trying to get the best of natural lighting at ideal times of the day, cos i can never seem to get iphone shots to look good under indoor/artificial...

i’ve had a few LM308H opamps to play with, and after a fair bit of breadboarding with them, and building a life pedal V1, it was time to build a proper og rat. my last rat build was for a friend with an OP07, and at the time i wasn’t real fond of it. not real sure if the opamp had much to do...

dank. i’m in.

would that be this one?

how long did you go for?

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/new-offerings-from-shnobel-tone.17696/#post-288222

christ on a bike

how does one procure one of these DM-3 boards?

yeah this makes sense, cheers. interesting, sounds like low leakage isn’t really the way to go here… i struggled to get a Mk1 to sound good. it does seem to be about finding suitable transistors.. i’ll have another go eventually. go have a look at aionfx’s mki schematic and see what they’ve...

well, with a trimpot on Q2c, I guess I could bounce between different bias settings for whichever flavour.... interesting when you say 'high leakage fuzz face'... - where is the threshold for what is considered high leakage? or low leakage? or even normal? i haven't really gathered a sample...

currently waiting on a board to dry/cure, so on the weekend I decided to have a look at that stash of MP38A (in the post above) and maybe have another go at breadboarding a fuzz face. found the stash, emptied it out and wtf... i do not remember being this organized. turns out i had...

he likes simple: build the deep blue delay. done. brilliantly simple design that does what it does very well. also sounds like old mate isn’t going to know or care for the difference between shelling out for BBDs or cheap & cheerful PT2399s.

congrats on your 3rd build, looks very well executed 🤙🏻 masking tape can help hold components in position. but what i really do to keep not only box caps straight, but also resistors and anything else, is to solder only one lead of each component at a time (in a ‘run’ of soldering in...

the vast differences in these trimpot settings (from left side to right side) leads me to believe that they may not have been dialled in 'correctly'

DIYLC is the bomb. perfect for turretboard and veroboard layouts, pretty sure it does perfboard too. don't see why you couldn't design PtP layouts with it.

you'll also wanna have the right pinout for however the PCB is laid out.

ohh hell yeah that’s probably a better way to do it. (but i’m not sure i’d be able to do it like that without burning things with the iron lol) thanks 🤙🏻 all my builds are done with 22awg solid core from tayda (i bought too much red, normally prefer white)

cheers 🤘 yeah it’s a PITA to fix up and do these mods after it’s already boxed it up, but i reckon it’s worth it for the lush modulations this is capable of.. (i also figured out i could just bend the pot out of the way to desolder the resistors instead of desoldering a whole pot) yep, it’s a...

omg. the noise. how did i not see all these threads: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/dark-rift-delay-distortion-fuzz-in-wet-signal.3512/page-3#post-41773 https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/dark-rift-delay-noise-in-the-repeats.4557/ https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/dark-rift-noise.4069/...