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Sproing Deluxe with drill template?

After repairing the Black Russian BMP, looking at building one using the Muffin Fuzz PCB. I think the Russian BMP used transistors similar to the B549C if I can recall, would using the Double G OD version in the build documents get me somewhat there?

Are these in your store now?

Man that is awesome, you always do a superb job Dan!

Just finished up another of these, great YAST. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uqgDKmXsikSXeNTb8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/uPAtTmqs3o7Ahkro7

Got it working thanks for everyone's help! Rewired it completely, added a new 3pdt switch, LED, and added a DC jack. This thing sounds great, I hate to give it back! I guess I will just need to build a clone now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/V7Hd9ry3aJjCrud96...

I suck at schematics, I will look at it and try to figure it out.

One goes the the CLR and the other to the actual LED. Can I just wire one to the actual LED?

So I have this thing all wired up and working, however the LED is on in bypass mode and off when the effect is working. Here is how I wired the 3pdt switch. Should I move the LED wires down to the bottom lug?

I need to get some more silicon tips for my Engineer solder sucker, it came with extra but I seem to have misplaced it. Anyone ever have to order any replacement silicon tubing?

So I decided to completely re-wire this thing. I am not sure if I am going to replace the pots or not, I guess I should. But the OEMS still work appear to be in tolerance. Putting in a Gorva 3pdt and drilled a hole for DC adapter, probably going to keep the battery connection. Hopefully it...

Not sure why the screenshot didn't show up. Here is the link. https://singlecoil.com/docs/russian_muff.pdf

Doing some more research on this, it appears they did switch over to a 3dpt switch in the later versions. It appears that the trace was cut during manufacturing. I found this document online showing how to convert to true bypass. I am going to give this a go, it looks a little different...

Also here is the back side of the PCB. It looks like a trace was cut to the input jack. I am guessing the pink wire goes to the LED since it was battery powered by OEM?

So the wires are so brittle I am going to have to rewire the foot switch. Some of the footswitch wiring is going to the center lugs of the volume and sustain pots. Is this for ground? These are 100k pots would they be A or B pots?

Use a DMM to test the continuity between the lugs, and then the lugs to the jacks. That will tell you if something in the switch has been damaged.

So here is what I got, finally took some pics. Trying to figure out where this wire should go on the footswitch? And some wires broke off the footswitch itself.

This is exactly the one I am working on.

This version already has a 3pdt foot switch, it looks stock. I think they used silk for wiring never seen anything this fragile. Lol. I am going to look back at it again tonight, I should have taken some pics but some stuff came up. It does sound great, just need to get the LED working. В...

Yeah the wires are so fragile in this one, it is driving me crazy.