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Some might actually be harder to find going forward. Just saw this posted on another forum: https://www.mouser.com/PCN/Wima_WIMA_Letter_MYLAR_PET_PEN_27_02_2025.pdf

To avoid big, sloppy holes, drill a little bit too small, then dial it in precisely with your handy deburring tool: And to carry right on with the innuendo, a little bit of (mild, water-based) lube on stubborn threads can keep you from cross-threading your nuts.

“Guy on a ladder” is the correct title for this character. No legit Electrician would say something this dumb. Other than red and black for power, the only thing I consistently color code is offboard-wired pots. So I can easily visually distinguish lugs 1, 2, and 3 (generally do Brown Orange...

Constant current is for devices that you want to operate at a fixed amperage but that may have fluctuating voltage. It doesn’t “force” a current, it just keeps the current steady while allowing the voltage to fluctuate as demanded by the load. LED lighting is a common example. Pedals, barring...

Looking at a couple of random Boss and EHX power supplies I have lying around, 200mA output seems pretty common. Maybe use that as a starting point, if you don’t know how much your circuit is supposed to draw. Then do this to set your current limit: • Turn voltage and current knobs down to...

There’s British christian “rock”?! 🤯 Is it Strypre?

Panavise with this head on it. You can build a pedal with any old cheapo ‘third hand’ thing. But this is so much more versatile (holds anything) and super easy/quick to adjust. Also, +1 on the deburring tool. 👍

Aion also have a Whetstone clone: https://aionfx.com/project/redshift-deluxe-phaser/ If you want a more tweakable Small Stone.

I interpreted it as the 9mm pots are being used because of the dense design, and the OP just doesn’t want to bother putting extra holes in the PCB and soldering in the support tabs that aren’t needed structurally. Not that it’s so dense that the support tabs won’t fit 🤷‍♀️

Some mini Side and/or End-cutting pliers are good to have around for stuff like this. Tips (to avoid dulling/breaking your pliers): • start from one side and cut it in 2 or 3 ‘bites’ instead of one • or just score it with your cutters then bend it back and forth with your regular flat pliers...

I’d guess that the filter probably isn’t responding to the entire range of that LDR. Like the filter’s fully open a while before the LDR hits 5R, and fully closed quite a bit before it hits 10M. Also the light source may not be bright enough to even get it to the 5R anyway. Synth type filters...

“AI” stuff like this reminds me of Cold Reading. You can read some ‘intelligence’ into it if you’re determined enough, but mostly it’s just a lame parlor trick, regurgitating stuff it’s just been fed. So glad we’re apparently going to build a bunch of new power plants for the sole purpose of...

Parts sourcing is my least favorite part of this hobby. A big part of the appeal of ordering from Aion is having those ready-made Mouser BOMs to upload. Of course, then the parts show up and you have to sort them all…😢 And it is baffling how the same manufacturer will offer several almost...

Looks like these Kemets are the closest/cheapest Mouser has: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/MMK5105K50J02L4BULK?qs=IKDMbYZLynD64zpkm%252B02hg%3D%3D 7.2 x 3.5, 50VDC, $1.38/ea. if you buy 10

‘Twill be the metal-est bird of them all! 🤘 All will be revealed, soon…ish;)

Kevin from Aion also responded yesterday afternoon confirming that either one will work fine. Though he said 2N5087 had gotten harder to find lately.

Duh, I just had the brilliant idea to look at the PPCB version. And what does it have in Q3, but our old friend 2N3906! I’m gonna go with “pop it in there and get on with my day”.

Was almost done populating my Aion Graviton PCB when I noticed I have a 2N3906 for Q3 instead of a 2N5087. How did that happen? Well, turns out the build docs list the 2N5087 for Q3, but the Mouser BOM (which I ordered from) lists 2N3906 for Q3. Some quick Googling suggests these two may be...

The typeface and the graphic give it a 1970s sci-fi/fantasy paperback cover vibe, to me. Very cool!

I have experimented a little bit with trying to paint after etching. I’ve used Testors Enamel (the stuff for painting models). Problem is it’s on the liquidy side, so I haven’t worked out how to get it in the spots I want without it running over the edge into the etched part. Also, it’s fairly...