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I built a few boards using this schematic, (after paneling I got 15 pcb's inside 100mm x 100mm.. 60 boards for 2 dollars and shipping at JLCPCB!) I changed the contacts on my schematic after noticing the on-at-power up design. I was wondering if there was a reason to do it that way... P.S. I...

This looks very interesting! Sooo crying out for some mods. U1A is begging for some filters, and maybe a muff tone stack after the diode, kick the gain up on U1B? 🤟

R5 and C2 form a low pass filter. R5, among other things, works with C2 to set a corner frequency and helps set AC current.

1. Yup, leave out c16. Jamie Stillman is the only one that can answer why he chose that. There is no tech reason, other than It does change the sound slightly. 2. Yes, on the schematic. Electrically, there is no "left" or "right". 3. Everybody else does it! Go for it!

You will need to jumper the unused LED pad. You will still need a CLR, No matter which LED pad you choose. The CLR and the LED are both between +9v and the "SW" pad, so LED current cannot get to the footswitch if they are not populated or jumped.(y)

Voltage is normal. It has a charge pump making a bi -polar power supply, +17vdc and -17vdc, If you measure from ground. Between pins 4 and 8 on the op amp should be ~34vdc.

You'll have to jump the unused LED pad, as both are in circuit.

What are your pin voltages?

Trebuchet?

Wow! I'll bet you can find some HORRIBLE sounds in that..(y)

? At full CCW, the mosfet is set for unity gain. Am I missing something? It should be very close to unity as drawn..

VCC = Voltage of Common Collector

Yeah, it's a limiter. You can leave it out with no ill effects. Thorpy (among others) uses it in a few of his designs, as well.

It's hard to know exactly without the rest of the circuit, but in this configuration they form an over-voltage limiter.

I think it's a decent pedal! I'm the guy that just built a vero to try it, and it really solved a lot of little noises and signal issues live. Mind you, that's with a regular old bipolar power supply and not the "whatever" type..

You can also use solid wire, or cutoff lead ends..

That's how I'd do it.

Just lift one end of the resistor and run a switch..

Oh man if that gets ya, I know places on the web you can get the schematics AND a PCB, for like, less than 10 bucks! MOST have schematics, anyway.. 🤪

Have you continuity checked your toggle switches? Honestly, if your chip is coming on and affects the circuit, it's probably fine. IME, Cmos fails to silence. That said, I hope it is that easy to fix. The circuit is basically a 2 transistor "fuzz" into a blend circuit. The fuzzed signal is...