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Hey, it's not your fault at all. Between this thread and the one on TGP, I have the solution and the "why" behind it! The kit recommendation was a good one- it's way less bulky than the diode stack and now I know where to install it. 3rd bonus! The information is now here for future DIY amp...

I posted my problem over on TGP and got many helpful suggestions, as well as a technical explanation for what's going on. First, the explanation, as given by bmc0 here: "When you lower the B+ by way of the center tap, what you're actually doing is creating a negative voltage offset at the...

Another update: After testing with various combinations of R1 and R2, I decided to remove the ZDK to ensure everything still works as it was.. And sure enough, it’s back to purring like a kitten! A kitten that’s running a full 70-80 volts higher B+ than expected, just like before. I kind of...

Update! The Good News: I installed the Granger kit, and all of the voltages are dead-on. B+ is ~330v, and everything down the line is where it should be. The Bad News: The bias supply needs some MAJOR tweaking. The Granger kit said this might be the case, but it's not as straightforward as I...

I love the justification for this build. "I had a Fender badge lying around, so I built an amp to stick it on!" :love: Have fun with the 5E3. It's legendary for a reason!

This is one I'm super interested in- I used a Superbolt as my main drive for a few years, then sold it off during an amp building craze when it became redundant. I'd forgotten about it until the 'discontinued' notice when FOMO kicked in and the prices spiked. Let's discuss menu-style knob...

Yep. I’ve gotten a few PTs that were close enough to compensate with dropping resistors, but I try to find the “lower B+” model whenever possible. Looks like MM does have one of those for the 5F11, by the way. The FTVP has unlisted B+, but the FBVP lists 320v instead of the Mojo’s 350v. It...

Thank you for this! I'm familiar with the difference between vintage and modern wall voltages; I've had to dial in a lot of voltages to get things right on some of my builds! In every case, they started off as too high.. I still can't wrap my head around why the zener method I tried didn't...

My wall voltage consistently hovers around 120v, and right now it’s at 121.5v. ___ I’ve tested 4 different 5Y3GT rectifiers with the following results: NOS Motorola (416v) NOS Motorola (412v) NOS Sylvania (411v) NOS Tung-Sol (415v) Tubes 2-4 are US made. Fair to say Motorola 1 is also US...

Ahoy there, fellow amp building enthusiasts. This week I've been going through my very first amp build, a 5F11 Vibrolux kit from Mojotone. Now that I have several amp builds under my belt, I decided it was time to clean up the wiring and do a general safety check. I was reminded that the...

Here’s a Peppermint gut shot: The red lead of the battery snap (usually referred to as positive, or + ) connects to the Ring of the input jack. The Sleeve then connects to the circuit’s ground. IMPORTANT: For the purpose of this PNP circuit, just pretend (+) is negative and (-) is...

No, you haven’t missed anything. I was just looking for confirmation that it is. Ah, I thought it was. My bad! Based on my false assumption, I was wondering whether it could be switched like the Baby Pink Booster: BPB is: • Input Jack — In • Output Jack — Out • Footswitch connects Boost lug...

As I said on the ‘Gram… Tweed Deluxe with RobRob mods!

I haven’t finished building it yet- I keep meaning to breadboard and try, but other projects keep popping up. My question was out of curiosity since the original is buffered bypass; I don’t mind if it’s a little above unity, as long as it’s not below. Needing a buffer itself isn’t the concern...

One benefit would be size constraints. For 1590A builds with more than 1 or 2 pots, they’re a must! Another is sturdiness on the PCB. If you have the space for the stabilizer tabs, there’s less of a chance the legs will flex and break than on a 16mm with flying leads. And let’s not forget that...

I agree that a more precise measurement would be ideal. My process for the last 10 years has been to cover the face in masking tape, use the square to grid my drill points, center hole punch, pilot hole, step bit. More often than not, though, my holes are dead-on; the few times I've had problems...

In “high mode” the input capacitor lets in a lot more bass (1uf), so placing a buffer before it will generally negate this effect due to the buffer’s smaller input cap. A typical klon-style buffer has a 100n (.1uf) input capacitor, which is why you get relief from the woofiness.

EDIT: The toggle is not for clipping. The stripe (cathode / negative) will be the same on any diode as with the 1N4001s. Typically, the flag inside an LED points toward positive (anode), and typically the longer of the leads is the positive side. As for the replacements: D1 and D2 are a pair...

Yes, drilling is key! One day I’ll sit down and map out a drill template for Tayda, but until then.. Top 2: pot spacing (for 9mm pots) Bottom: footswitch Top: input jack side Bottom: DC jack on north side- surprisingly important when placing the PCB. Too high or too low will f*** up the spacing!

To answer your original question, the Enchanted Boost will fit pretty easily if you forego the board mounted pot and run wires instead. I’m pretty sure the Squidward (EQD Tentacle/ Green Ringer) will too. With a can-do attitude and a bottle of lube, other projects will fit: Executive Fuzz...