6-band EQ

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
Would be be OK to blast one square hole in the center of the enclosure, instead of (a) waiting for the pre-drilled enclosures or (b) attempting to make the slits?

Yep, if I had to do it over again this is what I would do. This might be the way Tayda ends up having to do it as well.

The new Mesa pedals are all done like this too, FWIW.... One universal enclosure with a big cutout and a faceplate for the controls.

Just make sure you don't drill past the edge of the faceplate, there isn't a lot of room for error there.
 

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
Just an added note (I'll add this to the build docs shortly as well)....

Assembly is much easier if you go in this order:
  • Install faders onto the fader module
  • Install all components onto the main module
  • Solder pinheaders onto the fader module
  • Mount fader module into the enclosure using hex spacers / screws
    6mm screws go through the face of the enclosure, 4mm screws go inside the enclosure
  • Install main module onto pinheaders and solder in place
  • Wire it up
  • Equalize. ??????
 

zgrav

Well-known member
FYI -- just checking the fit for the PCB inside my Tayda 125b Enclosure compared to the template in the build docs. The outer edges of the fader module do not fit inside the hole posts in the enclosure, and that stops the mounting holes from lining up with the template. Looks like I will bump that part of the template down about 1/8th of an inch closer to the footswitch.
 

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
I'll pop mine open and snap a pic as soon as possible, I used a 125B from Tayda with this template.
 

zgrav

Well-known member
I see what you mean about a very snug fit inside the case. I think I am going to mark the screw holes from the inside using the mounting holes on the fader board as a guide. And then line the template up with those holes. That seems about as fool proof as I can try to make it.
 

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
Yep, do what you're most comfortable with.

One thing to keep in mind is that the sides of the enclosure (and screw supports) are slightly tapered, and the PCB isn't going to sit all the way in the bottom of the enclosure.

Temporarily attach the hex standoffs to the fader board and drop it in the enclosure to get an idea of where it's going to sit.
 

Barry

Well-known member
I have a couple enclosures fails from when I first started drilling my own I can experiment with and possibly salvage!
 

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
What happen if I use common potentiometers?

I've considered a standard 6-knob version with regular pots.

You could wire them up to the existing board but it'd be a little messy, it'd be much better with a dedicated PCB.
 

dmnCrawler

Well-known member
I'll get the build docs up as quickly as possible. This one has a couple parts that aren't immediately obvious. (hex spacers)

These are the slide pots I used: (B50K with center detent)

Some folks have suggested using W20K instead of B50K but I haven't personally tried them...

I believe the PTL30 Bourne slide potentiometer with LED from Mouser would work as well. Correct? These would let me see the setting in the dark or on stage.
 

BurntFingers

Well-known member
Do you think you could fit a 6 knob eq into a 125b? Just using regular pots I mean. I'm curious if the 2 x 074s would be able to fit along with the switch and gubbins. Maybe 1/8w resistors? Not as cool looking as sliders though.
 

Robert

Reverse Engineer
Staff member
Do you think you could fit a 6 knob eq into a 125b? Just using regular pots I mean. I'm curious if the 2 x 074s would be able to fit along with the switch and gubbins. Maybe 1/8w resistors? Not as cool looking as sliders though.
Yep I don't think it should be a problem. Worst case scenario we can just make a 16mm pot module for the existing signal board.
 
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