Anyone ever do the same build, one using expensive one using low cost Tayda and compare

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

Tone and sound is subjective to all, but I am nerdily curious if anyone has ever gone through the exercise of building 2 identical kits and one kit you went baseline Tayda, 1 penny stuff, and another using "expensive" caps and other parts and compared. I would think the main difference would be less noise overall? I really really dig my face melter pedal and want to make another one but with "higher end" parts in it.

 

[Big Monk]

My ears tell me Mojo parts don’t make a difference. Except for transistors. I put my faith, and money, in transistors.

 

[Harry Klippton]

I think they'd sound as different as any two of the same circuit do from component value differences from manufacturing tolerances

 

[spi]

I'd be curious to find out. But I agree with @Harry Klippton -- even if you perceive a difference, it'd be possible that it's attributable to tolerance rather than quality, so you wouldn't even know for sure.

(And even if it did improve something, I'd stick to tayda for my own builds anyway).

 

[Paradox916]

I think where the big difference (from how I understand) everything being equal ie tolerance and specs. The tonal quality difference will be negligible but the longevity of quality parts will be longer.... in particularly electrolytic caps which have a finite lifespan. Not sure how right I am on that so take it with a grain of salt.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I find very cheap ceramics are considerably noisier than caps a little higher up the food chain. To be honest all of my early builds used the cheapest stuff I could find on tayda in 2014 and they were a lot noisier than the later ones when I moved onto higher quality parts.

 

[Paradox916]

@SillyOctpuss agreed. I try not to use the cheaply ceramic disks....there was only one case where I couldn’t find a box film or MLCC and went with one but I will swap a MLCC for a wima box film if space is an issue and not even think twice about it.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

@SillyOctpuss agreed. I try not to use the cheaply ceramic disks....there was only one case where I couldn’t find a box film or MLCC and went with one but I will swap a MLCC for a wima box film if space is an issue and not even think twice about it.

I'm ok with using NPO and C0G in ceramics but nothing lower down the food chain than that

 

[Feral Feline]

Some things are VERY noticeable, once you've tried them.

The difference between working with a single-layer flimsy phenolic PCB warped from heat'n'humidity with plated holes only on one side VS a good'n'thick straight fibreglass PCB with proper sized holes plated through on both sides — nightmares and deities apart.


'Nuther 'xample:

I just had to rip out all 4 of the craptastic switching jacks out of my 5E3 build and install slightly less craptastic jacks — when the planets align and I've time and money I will swap out the Not-So-Fantastic-Four jacks for some proper high-quality Switchcraft or Neutrik.

The first set of jacks that were replaced were inexpensive enough, but the time spent debugging my build and the cost of therapy needed from the insanity of jacks the consistency of banana-peels ... I've gotta buy better jacks anyway, so what money did I save on El Cheaporamma Jackassage? It's cost me more in money, minutes, mental-health...

The second set of jacks is just to get the build done and I had them on hand.

The THIRD set of jacks will be the last set hopefully for many years to come before needing replacement.





Long run...




off a short pier...