Anyone use Graphtech saddles? Thoughts? (Strat warble)

mjh36

Active member
My tele was doing a similar thing and I never did sort it out. I went from 9's to 11's (normally played 10's) and it disappeared. I like the feel of the heavier strings. I have a tendency to death-grip the neck and it makes my tuning accuracy a lot better. Plus making silly faces when you bend strings now happens for a reason :)

Couple of things you could try. Do you use the tremolo? Might be worth blocking it to see if that corrects it at all, at least temporarily. Also straighten the neck or even overbow it to tighten the truss rod to see if you're getting any weird resonances from it. While you're at it stuff some foam or a sock or something under the strings behind the nut to rule that out. Did your tech check the nut to make sure the slots are angled from front to back? You can usually hear them buzz at the nut but maybe it's subtle enough.

Good luck, it's a maddening process, especially on a guitar you don't want to walk away from.
I've tried the blocking and decking, or floating it at different heights/angles with no luck. Tried a sock behind the nut too. It's an LSR roller nut, but no buzzing there. Neck has just barely a bit of relief to it, the truss rod is getting kinda kinda tight to turn so I'm not sure how much more I wanna tighten it. It plays fantastic as far as feel and action/intonation/neck relief goes.

But yes, it's been my only axe for 13 years and it makes me not wanna play it because of this sound. I haven't tried heavier strings so I'll give that a go.
 

mjh36

Active member
It could be the wood of the body itself and how it resonates...
That's what I've always been thinking in the back of my mind, some sort of neck/body/truss rod resonance. I've looked at everything, only so many parts on a guitar, but it still eludes me... I really wanna try swapping a neck or body before buying one, but I only have this guitar.
 

music6000

Well-known member
If you put a Capo on the 1st fret & hold down string at the 17th fret, what gap (it should have one) is at the 7th fret?
Do this on every string, it should be the same.
 

mjh36

Active member
If you put a Capo on the 1st fret & hold down string at the 17th fret, what gap (it should have one) is at the 7th fret?
Do this on every string, it should be the same.
Yes there is a very minor gap, and it's the same every string. Just that slight touch of relief. That type of stuff I feel pretty good about. I've adjusted, checked, and checked again. It's just I've checked so much I don't know what else besides literally the whole body or neck.
 
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mjh36

Active member
New sound clips with Gotoh bridge. Clean and distortion. Low E to high E, frets 12-15 just as an example. You can hear it clear up on the high E notes. But other than that it does it all over just gets faster when you go up the neck.


 

Gordo

Well-known member
Hmmm, I see what you mean. Kinda weird that your tech would just write that off as being picky. You'll always get a little of that on most guitars but that does sound pretty extreme. I wish I had a neck kicking around to send you to try.
 

music6000

Well-known member
Yes there is a very minor gap, and it's the same every string. Just that slight touch of relief. That type of stuff I feel pretty good about. I've adjusted, checked, and checked again. It's just I've checked so much I don't know what else besides literally the whole body or neck.
When you say Minor, what thou are we talking?
Don't say less than 10 thou.
 

mjh36

Active member
Hmmm, I see what you mean. Kinda weird that your tech would just write that off as being picky. You'll always get a little of that on most guitars but that does sound pretty extreme. I wish I had a neck kicking around to send you to try.
Ya I had high hopes for this guy. He went to a luthier school, and he used to work at basically the most reputable guitar repair shop in Seattle. Yet when I picked my guitar up he showed me how a screwdriver sticks magnetically to the bridge pickup and I should remove it and try that. I was not impressed... It was then I found I probably know more than him, atleast about this guitar or stratocasters in general. Don't get me wrong he can do some great woodwork repair I'd imagine, and he was really nice. I was hoping he had a spare strat to change the neck or something but he didn't.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
Fenders are a unique beast. My strat and tele both have a fair bit of relief in the neck so might be worth exploring.
 
I'd just try thicker strings, thicker string=less flop=less out of tune (especially if you pick hard)= which should equal less "warble". Or if it is only on the g, try a wound third set.

But the only part I can think of that would be worth upgrading that could actually help would be the springs since you said you had the guitar for 13 years, they could be worn/stretched out (at least in comparison to before) and wiggle too much, but since you swapped the bridge I assume you put on new springs.
 

mjh36

Active member
I'd just try thicker strings, thicker string=less flop=less out of tune (especially if you pick hard)= which should equal less "warble". Or if it is only on the g, try a wound third set.

But the only part I can think of that would be worth upgrading that could actually help would be the springs since you said you had the guitar for 13 years, they could be worn/stretched out (at least in comparison to before) and wiggle too much, but since you swapped the bridge I assume you put on new springs.
Ya I used all the stuff that came with the Gotoh, trem claw, springs, even the screws. I'll definitely try the thicker strings it's been a long time since I've tried any. I like low action with a soft touch so I stick to lighter gauges usually.
 

mjh36

Active member
Fenders are a unique beast. My strat and tele both have a fair bit of relief in the neck so might be worth exploring.
I didn't try that out yet actually, I've been lessening my relief over the years, to where almost none is perfect. But ya thank you that gives me something to work on.
 
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