Arachnid - Dual Eeprom

phi1

Well-known member
This is my 2nd Arachnid build, my first was the old version with the potentiometer to select patches. This new version with the 8-way switch is much nicer.

Since PedalPCB hasn't released a dual eeprom board yet, I had to cobble together my own on perfboard. If @PedalPCB does release a dual eeprom board, this would be the configuration I'd vote for, since the most obvious application is to use it on an Arachnid board, and I was able to keep it in a 125B. It was a little tight having the switch at the top under the power jack, but doable.

I included shots of the dual Eeprom daughterboard, and a drawing of the layout. Following info previously provided from PedalPCB, you can select Eeproms by manipulating Pin1. Pin1 low (0v) is activated, Pin1 high (3.3v) is deactivated. As he also noted, fliping the toggle switch doesn't automatically change programs, you have to move the 8-way selector switch before the fv-1 will recognize a program change.

It was tricky soldering the pin headers onto the bottom side of the perfboard, since I had to leave a space between the plastic and the perfobard to get the iron in there. I just noticed that in the pictures that you can see I didn't get solder to fill all the way around on some of them (oops), but the connections all still registered with the multimeter. I used a piece of white foam from Tayda's dip socket packaging to support the cantilevered part of the daughterboard. I had to be careful about the order of soldering (8 way switch, then daughterboard, then mix pot).

For Bank A I used mostly spacialist reverb patches, with a code tweak on the shimmer so that it's only octave up. For the B side, it's a mix of PedalPCB patches (kaleidescope and sample hold), patches I found online, and some I wrote myself. I used my dev board build with exterior eeprom socket to test all the patches and flash the A and B chips.

**EDIT** - the pdf on my original post had an error on the perfboard layout (see p_wats comment on 8/10/2020). I marked up and reattached the pdf.
 

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is that one of the Lego lenses for the LED? nice job with the layout.
Haha I did see someone do that on here. No, mines just the 5mm type 1 bezel from here.

I forgot to mention I used an RGB LED from tayda, with the blue and green diodes activate (one resistor for each). That's what's on the little vero board under the LED. It turned out cool because it's kind of a sea blue / sea green look, and depending on the angle you look at it it's more blue or green. I sanded the outside of the clear bulb of the LED to make it more diffuse too to help it all blend better.
 
Cool! I've been tempted to do this same thing, but haven't found the time. Glad I can copy your example now if need be! Thanks.
 
Thanks guys. Credit for the art goes to my buddy who is a graphic designer. We have a good thing going where I’m teaching him to build pedals and he occasionally does some design work for me. Even though I’ve done a bunch with water slide now, I still don’t have it down perfect, but fortunately the imperfections on this one were minor.
 
@phi1 I hope you don't mind the thread revival, but I'm fascinated by this and want to adapt the layout to fit an older Arachnid board (EEPROM on the other side, so it all has to be swapped to fit).

I understand the schematic (thanks for that!) but it looks like the perf drawing always has pin 1 of the first socket grounded (as it's connected to the pin header that would be grounded by the PCB connections).

I just mocked up a version and the only way it worked was to remove that connection to the first pin header and let the switch takeover deciding which pin 1 was actually grounded.

Does that make sense?
 
oh man you're right! So sorry! I don't have that unit anymore, but looking at the pics I posted (particularly that angled view of the solder side), I don't think I made that connection. I'm guessing what happened is when I initially wired the board up, I probably made a really crude diagram that was correct, then copied it wrong for the presentable version (although I thought I checked over it so many times haha!)

I'll add an edit to my original post. Good luck with your journey on the mega fv-1 pedal (I hope my bad diagram wasn't the cause of all your woes...)
 
oh man you're right! So sorry! I don't have that unit anymore, but looking at the pics I posted (particularly that angled view of the solder side), I don't think I made that connection. I'm guessing what happened is when I initially wired the board up, I probably made a really crude diagram that was correct, then copied it wrong for the presentable version (although I thought I checked over it so many times haha!)

I'll add an edit to my original post. Good luck with your journey on the mega fv-1 pedal (I hope my bad diagram wasn't the cause of all your woes...)

No problem at all. I'm just happy I can apparently still read a schematic after somehow screwing up that last build so badly. Ha.

Those issues definitely weren't the fault of anything here, as I tried the same daughter board in another working build (brave/stupid, I know) and it didn't do any damage, just no sound.

I'm going to build up a few of these for my remaining Arachnids, so thanks for posting this!
 
Here’s a version I drew up for a strip board layout in case you prefer that. I made it for someone who said they weren’t familiar with building on strip board, hence the over the top detail.

I haven’t tested it, but I checked over it and I think it’s good, let me know if you notice any errors.
 

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Here’s a version I drew up for a strip board layout in case you prefer that. I made it for someone who said they weren’t familiar with building on strip board, hence the over the top detail.

I haven’t tested it, but I checked over it and I think it’s good, let me know if you notice any errors.

That's great. Thanks for sharing. Very thorough!

I do build more often in vero, so I coincidentally drew up my own layout last night as well for the two newer Arachnids I have.
 
For what it's worth, I wanted to learn DIY Layout Creator anyway, so this is the layout I used for my double Arachnid pedal. My board sockets weren't the type that would accept pin headers, so this layout has been adapted for wired connections (one row wider). It works great!
arachnid-daughter-board-vero.JPG
 
This is my 2nd Arachnid build, my first was the old version with the potentiometer to select patches. This new version with the 8-way switch is much nicer.

Since PedalPCB hasn't released a dual eeprom board yet, I had to cobble together my own on perfboard. If @PedalPCB does release a dual eeprom board, this would be the configuration I'd vote for, since the most obvious application is to use it on an Arachnid board, and I was able to keep it in a 125B. It was a little tight having the switch at the top under the power jack, but doable.

I included shots of the dual Eeprom daughterboard, and a drawing of the layout. Following info previously provided from PedalPCB, you can select Eeproms by manipulating Pin1. Pin1 low (0v) is activated, Pin1 high (3.3v) is deactivated. As he also noted, fliping the toggle switch doesn't automatically change programs, you have to move the 8-way selector switch before the fv-1 will recognize a program change.

It was tricky soldering the pin headers onto the bottom side of the perfboard, since I had to leave a space between the plastic and the perfobard to get the iron in there. I just noticed that in the pictures that you can see I didn't get solder to fill all the way around on some of them (oops), but the connections all still registered with the multimeter. I used a piece of white foam from Tayda's dip socket packaging to support the cantilevered part of the daughterboard. I had to be careful about the order of soldering (8 way switch, then daughterboard, then mix pot).

For Bank A I used mostly spacialist reverb patches, with a code tweak on the shimmer so that it's only octave up. For the B side, it's a mix of PedalPCB patches (kaleidescope and sample hold), patches I found online, and some I wrote myself. I used my dev board build with exterior eeprom socket to test all the patches and flash the A and B chips.

**EDIT** - the pdf on my original post had an error on the perfboard layout (see p_wats comment on 8/10/2020). I marked up and reattached the pdf.
hi phi.. great job!! did you solve the issue that make you use the rotary to recognize the changes?

TIA
 
Thanks!

No, that’s a limitation of the fv-1 chip. The fv-1 only fetched the data from the eeprom when it detects a change on pins 16-18. Flipping the A/B toggle doesn’t affect pins 16-18, it just affects which eeprom chip will be active when the fv-1 fetches the data. So, when the toggle is flipped, the fv-1 doesn’t know to fetch new eeprom data until you move the rotary.

Hope this helps
 
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