Double FV-1 Reverb

[jubal81]

This turned out to be one of the most challenging builds I've done in a while because of the way I wanted everything to fit together.
The idea is one side for subtle, always-on reverb and using channel-switching mode on the intelligent relay bypass to go to another, more intense reverb.
Left side is a Pythagoras with Spring, Room and Hall reverbs and the right side is an Arachnid Spacialist.
I prefer to use film caps for the 1uF, so a lot of those are mounted on the back sides of the PCBs. The Arachnid was juuuust a hair too long for my faceplate layout, so I had to shave off the wiring side with a file all the way down to the pads. Then I realized I'd reversed the Volume and Mix controls on my faceplate so I had to cross wire them. And moving the location of the LEDs was a lot trickier than I thought it would be because those damn 1uF warts all over the back.

The only deviation from the original projects are the volume and mix controls. Used audio taper for both and didn't connect Pin 3 on the mix. This leaves the dry path fully on all the time and just blends in the reverb path, which makes it a lot easier to dial in subtle settings. Did the same with my Hydra and it made it MUCH more usable for me.

Overall, works as envisioned and sounds great!

 

[p_wats]

Looks great! My double Arachnid is still my favourite pedal. So many options in one box!

 

[cooder]

Awesome build, Jason! I can hear the reverb ringing out here downunder...

Thanks for the hint of not connecting pin 3 on mix and audio taper, will have to keep that in mind!

 

[Gordo]

Jeebuz, you're just crushing this end of year thing. Some mighty tasty builds.

 

[jubal81]

The switching is really impressive. Kudos to Bugg on the relay bypass module. Works perfectly as advertised and whisper quiet.

Thinking about going more aggressive with the low-pass filtering on the effect line. The verb is a too crisp on the high end for my taste. And I'm also thinking about adding a switch on the spacialist to reconnect pin 3 on the mix knob for that side to enable full trippy spacialness.

 

[tcpoint]

Super nice build. What opamps did you use?

 

[jubal81]

Super nice build. What opamps did you use?

OPA1642

 

[duffy_lane]

I feel you on film caps but never thought to mount them on the back!!

 

[djmiyta]

This turned out to be one of the most challenging builds I've done in a while because of the way I wanted everything to fit together.
The idea is one side for subtle, always-on reverb and using channel-switching mode on the intelligent relay bypass to go to another, more intense reverb.
Left side is a Pythagoras with Spring, Room and Hall reverbs and the right side is an Arachnid Spacialist.
I prefer to use film caps for the 1uF, so a lot of those are mounted on the back sides of the PCBs. The Arachnid was juuuust a hair too long for my faceplate layout, so I had to shave off the wiring side with a file all the way down to the pads. Then I realized I'd reversed the Volume and Mix controls on my faceplate so I had to cross wire them. And moving the location of the LEDs was a lot trickier than I thought it would be because those damn 1uF warts all over the back.

The only deviation from the original projects are the volume and mix controls. Used audio taper for both and didn't connect Pin 3 on the mix. This leaves the dry path fully on all the time and just blends in the reverb path, which makes it a lot easier to dial in subtle settings. Did the same with my Hydra and it made it MUCH more usable for me.

Overall, works as envisioned and sounds great!

Did you do the face plate yourself? I really like it. How did it come about?

 

[jubal81]

Did you do the face plate yourself? I really like it. How did it come about?

Thanks! It's a laser-etched acrylic material. Same stuff used for a lot of amp faceplates. I bought a little desktop laser cutter and buy that material.

 

[Robert]

Oh wow, I didn't realize you were engraving those yourself.

Which laser are you using?

 

[jubal81]

Oh wow, I didn't realize you were engraving those yourself.

Which laser are you using?

Beamo.
I had been using a Glowforge at the Makerspace and got cut off from access for much of the pandemic. The Beamo software is much easier to use IMHO.
In addition to faceplates, I really enjoy making my own custom tools and drill guides, etc.

 

[Bio77]

Wow, fantastic build! Is that clear acrylic? I'm scratching my head at how you got the LED to glow through the faceplate.

 

[djmiyta]

Thanks! It's a laser-etched acrylic material. Same stuff used for a lot of amp faceplates. I bought a little desktop laser cutter and buy that material.

Thanks! It's a laser-etched acrylic material. Same stuff used for a lot of amp faceplates. I bought a little desktop laser cutter and buy that material.

Yeah that’s really nice .How long start to finish does that take? I know 0 about finishing a pedal never really cared about it much as long as it worked but now ….. I’m seeing incredible finished boxes like yours really impressive

 

[jubal81]

It's a "reverse-etch" material, so you engrave an image on the back and fill it with white paint. Instead of paint, I use white stickers where the LEDs go so they shine through.

Takes about 10 minutes to cut a faceplate. Wash the powder off. Then rub some white correction fluid in the engraving.

Once you get everything set up, which takes a bit of work, it's pretty quick and easy. Not cheap, though.

 

[jubal81]

It's a lot more work, but you can get fancy with multiple colors and glittery paint.

 

[Paradox916]

Both phenomenal builds... that bear is awesome!

 

[SillyOctpuss]

It's a "reverse-etch" material, so you engrave an image on the back and fill it with white paint. Instead of paint, I use white stickers where the LEDs go so they shine through.

Takes about 10 minutes to cut a faceplate. Wash the powder off. Then rub some white correction fluid in the engraving.

Once you get everything set up, which takes a bit of work, it's pretty quick and easy. Not cheap, though.

So do you paint on the reverse then sand off anything that goes outside of the etch or how do you actually apply it? Seriously cool results.

 

[jubal81]