Duo-Phase (Mutron Bi-Phase-ish)

MichaelW

MichaelW

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
So I originally built the Phase II (Mutron Phasor) because @Betty Wont said it was the coolest phasor on the planet, she wasn't wrong!
It's definitely my favorite (But I've only built 2 phasors so that may not be saying much.)

So I figured if ONE was kick ass, then TWO must be Kick Ass-er right?

Holy crap this was a long build (for me).
Took me all afternoon. Hardest part was gathering all the components. It's not a difficult build but the sheer volume of components can seem overwhelming. But once you get started it's not too bad. Lots of the same value components. (Like a crap ton of 4k7 resistors) and FIFTEEN ic's:oops: holy moly!

Anyway, I got it done....and realized a mistake I made. (I think). I assumed the 4 jack method only needed a TRS stereo jack for the switching jack.
I think I may have been mistaken because I can only get it to work in series (using I/O jacks A) but the B side does not work independently.

Granted I only spent about 10 minutes with it. I have some true switched jacks that I'll swap out tomorrow.
VERY cool having them running in series mode with two different LFO speeds. Right now I have the trimmers set up @Betty Wont style, meaning all set to noon. I think I'm going to need to fiddle with these a bit after fixing the switching jack issue.

I been on a roll with the modulation pedals as of late, the 'Lectric Mama Flanger, the Mini-Me Chorus and the Duo-Phase. On my bench next is going to be my next Muffin variant, the Green Russian. Waiting for the paint to dry on the enclosure:)

For the Duo-Phase I decided to go with a custom color. So I ordered a 1590xx in bare aluminum on my last Tayda order.
I drilled first, then painted with primer and my new favorite color, the "Burnished Amber" rattle can.

This enclosure came out pretty nice. Now just read some old threads to figure out what these egnimatic toggles do.....and fix the side B jacks.

Best sounding phasor in the world times TWO!!!

IMG_3846.JPG

IMG_3845.JPG
IMG_3847.JPG
 
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Hmmm. I had the circulator in my cart on Friday decided to hold off, now I’m wondering if I need to rethink my phaser choice. Something about led/Ldr builds always peaks my interest.

Build looks great, your rattle can finish is 🤩. I’ve used a hammered silver I really like as well. Which brand of paint is that burnished amber?
 
Wow, another great job. You also have a ghost blue LED. Magic! And everything is so straight! I can never get the trimpots to be aligned.

I have built this also but I have to design graphics and order the enclosure before I can add the pots and switches and test if it works. Did you use pin headers to connect the daughterboards?
 
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Whoa. That’s a beast. As always love the perfect symmetry of your work. I sense a move away from the tiny builds. 👍🏼
 
I love it. Now you need to get into artwork and labels (or just labels).. I kid, I kid..

There was a tip in another thread, I can't find it to give credit, about leaving the LED holes smaller than the LED and making it concave on the inside of the enclosure. Not quite breaking through, so you get just the tip (phrasing) of the LED poking through. I have started doing this and I like it. Works well for 3mm LEDs when you don't have a drill bit that's just perfect.
 
szukalski said:
I love it. Now you need to get into artwork and labels (or just labels).. I kid, I kid..

There was a tip in another thread, I can't find it to give credit, about leaving the LED holes smaller than the LED and making it concave on the inside of the enclosure. Not quite breaking through, so you get just the tip (phrasing) of the LED poking through. I have started doing this and I like it. Works well for 3mm LEDs when you don't have a drill bit that's just perfect.
Click to expand...
How do you make the holes concave? This happens to me accidentally through bad drilling technique
 
Locrian99 said:
Hmmm. I had the circulator in my cart on Friday decided to hold off, now I’m wondering if I need to rethink my phaser choice. Something about led/Ldr builds always peaks my interest.

Build looks great, your rattle can finish is 🤩. I’ve used a hammered silver I really like as well. Which brand of paint is that burnished amber?
Click to expand...
It's Behr brand available at Home Depot. Of the 3 colors I got, this one, the Brick Red both dry very quickly. The Deep Navy Blue doesn't....I used it on my Mini Me build and it got all scuffed up from handling.
 
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szukalski said:
I love it. Now you need to get into artwork and labels (or just labels).. I kid, I kid..

There was a tip in another thread, I can't find it to give credit, about leaving the LED holes smaller than the LED and making it concave on the inside of the enclosure. Not quite breaking through, so you get just the tip (phrasing) of the LED poking through. I have started doing this and I like it. Works well for 3mm LEDs when you don't have a drill bit that's just perfect.
Click to expand...
When I'm only doing LED's with no bezels, I drill the pilot hole from the top but then drill the actual holes from the inside. As @szukalski referenced this puts a slight chamfer on the inside (using a step bit) that allows the LED to sit in there snugly. But beware not all 5mm LED's are the same exact size the the amount of chamfer you need to test fit each one. These came out particularly nicely, I have many pedals where it did not come out so nice.
 
andare said:
How do you make the holes concave? This happens to me accidentally through bad drilling technique
Click to expand...
It's basically a countersink. I drill a 2.5mm pilot hole for all holes in the enclosure, then for the LEDs I use the step bit from the inside of the enclosure and make a countersink until the LED pokes out the right amount.

You can go from slight bump to full nipple doing it this way. I like slight bump, I have an unnecessary paranoia that I'll stomp on the LED for some reason.
 
Ok, I'm really confused about these switching jacks. I'm having an issue and will start a troubleshooting thread.
I can't get Side B to work independently and while I can select with LFOA or LFOB while using side A, I can't get A and B LFO's to work in series.

I think I borked something in the wiring.
 
Second Jack from the left in the gut shot pic: you have more than one connection on the sleeve. The live signal from the TRS should go to the tip…
 
Coda said:
Well, I’m glad it made sense, cause it was literally the first sentence my brain organized this morning, and I was sure it was jibberish…
Click to expand...
Fixed the picture. I'm still a bit too fuzzy myself to figure this out. Shouldn't try to troubleshoot or wield a soldering iron before my second cup of coffee......
 
szukalski said:
It's basically a countersink. I drill a 2.5mm pilot hole for all holes in the enclosure, then for the LEDs I use the step bit from the inside of the enclosure and make a countersink until the LED pokes out the right amount.

You can go from slight bump to full nipple doing it this way. I like slight bump, I have an unnecessary paranoia that I'll stomp on the LED for some reason.
Click to expand...
I make countersunk holes with my step bit but it's always an accident, I never mean to do it. How do I do it intentionally?
I've gone full nipple before and like you I always worry about breaking the LED.
 
Found my problem. Duh.....fixed it. Annotated in the original pics what I did wrong. Hopefully it will help someone else not be a dunce like me...... :ROFLMAO:
 
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