Bi-color would be slick. Let me know how the R4 mod works for you. I'd be concerned with clipping but then again that might add some cool character too. Looking forward to seeing what you do.
The design originally had a 2-color LED but there was no obvious indication of which color corresponded to which Speed control, so it was scrapped.
It'll be a little tricky to use the Speed breakout board. The lug you'll need to use is tied to another one, but it'd be fairly easy to wire it up without the breakout board.
Understood. Just out of curiosity, what was the trouble with how the indication worked out? Wouldn't you just assume a color for each speed control, i.e. Speed 1 = Red and Speed 2 = Blue?
Sure, but it was just as easy to assume LED On = Speed 1, LED Off = Speed 2. It seemed more obvious that the LED near the Speed 1 knob being lit indicated that it was the active control.
If you're going to use the breakout board you might consider just cutting the jumper trace, then you can solder all of the lugs and add your jumper wire.
Thanks Cooder. The original, besides being the size of a loaf of bread, had a slight drop in volume. I think because it had a tendancy to drop a tiny bit off the top and the bottom frequencies it was likely more of a perceived volume loss. The pedal was a bit hissy, although hardly a deal breaker. I always liked it early in the signal chain so that it became a bit more evil sounding than "effect-y". The coolest part was that the LFO was kinda lumpy in a way that I haven't heard many clones capture.Excellent and thanks for the details on lamp ldr placement and stuff.
As I have never had the chance to play an original, what do you mean exactly with 'coolest parts and shortcomings of original'; would love to hear your take on that a bit more in detail. You mentioned noise being an issue?
If one doesn't solder those two footswitch lugs to the breakout board isn't it possible that they still make contact with the pads?So, armed with the above comments from @PedalPCB, my multimeter and the Speed breakout board, I did a little research and continuity checking.
The center switch on the Speed board has the top most lugged tied to the center and connecting to ground through the pad on the main board.
I popped a switch in the breakout board to check whether leaving these 2 pads unsoldered on the board would allow me to bypass the integrated jumper trace. Other than normal switching continuity, there was never continuity between pads due to the integrated jumper. This is good news with respect to using a bicolor LED!
So here is how I see this going:
1.) Install 1/2 of the Bi LED as normal. The common anode makes connection on the main board to power and one of the cathodes makes connection to the bottom lug of the center switch as normal.
2.) Leave the top and center lugs of the Speed switch unsoldered on the breakout board. This nullifies the integrated jumper. Use the main board ground pad on the Speed switch rail to run a wire to the center lug of the center switch.
3.) Attach a wire to the remaining Bi LED cathode and attach it to the top lug on the Speed switch center switch.
This should look very clean as the wires can be hidden under the Speed switch breakout board. You simply have to suss out which color corresponds to what Speed control.
If one doesn't solder those two footswitch lugs to the breakout board isn't it possible that they still make contact with the pads?
When I make mine, I’m going to do the bi-color led (no breakout board), and just use a red and a blue chicken head knob for the two speed controls.
That link takes you to a switch that is ON - (OFF). Isn't this the one we're looking for: ON-ON? It's less expensive as well: