I had this copper enclosure from a re-house I'd done for somebody, and had been curious to try out the plumes circuit. The flat-top LED is from https://lighthouseleds.com.
2 simple mods I did which I'd recommend.
-100kA instead of 100kB for the volume pot. I had the B in there originally and could hardly find unity volume on the LED and no clipper modes. Much more enjoyable with the log pot.
-Replaced C10 output cap (10u) with a 1u MLCC. The reason is electrolytic caps can often leak some DC, and in that spot of the pedal ity6 will result in pop when switching pedal on and off. This is a common issue with many EQD designs. 1uF isn't small enough to cut any bass, unless the next pedal in the chain is unreasonably small input impedance (<5k). There's room for a box film 1uF, and a tantalum would also be a good choice here.
Another idea would be to use 1MA gain pot to makes it easier to dial in lower gain. Not sure if I'll bother swapping it on my build, as I like it so far with the gain at about noon.
It's a cool sounding pedal. Not much like a TS sound at all, more aggressive and a brash, crisp top end, as expected give the circuit changes from a TS. The tone knob does a nice job of taming highs when rolled down (I can't take a TS tone knob below noon without finding it extremely muddy). I like the LED mode best.
I'm guessing this could be built much simpler and sound very similar. I don't think the charge pump would have much affect on the sound with LEDs or silicon diodes, it seems to me it's main function is to have louder clean headroom on the no-clipping mode. Also, the input/output buffers could be dismissed with not so much impact, like the son of screamer and so many similar pedals. But, even the full circuit goes pretty quick on the PCB. If you're breadboarding, I'd say strip it down.
2 simple mods I did which I'd recommend.
-100kA instead of 100kB for the volume pot. I had the B in there originally and could hardly find unity volume on the LED and no clipper modes. Much more enjoyable with the log pot.
-Replaced C10 output cap (10u) with a 1u MLCC. The reason is electrolytic caps can often leak some DC, and in that spot of the pedal ity6 will result in pop when switching pedal on and off. This is a common issue with many EQD designs. 1uF isn't small enough to cut any bass, unless the next pedal in the chain is unreasonably small input impedance (<5k). There's room for a box film 1uF, and a tantalum would also be a good choice here.
Another idea would be to use 1MA gain pot to makes it easier to dial in lower gain. Not sure if I'll bother swapping it on my build, as I like it so far with the gain at about noon.
It's a cool sounding pedal. Not much like a TS sound at all, more aggressive and a brash, crisp top end, as expected give the circuit changes from a TS. The tone knob does a nice job of taming highs when rolled down (I can't take a TS tone knob below noon without finding it extremely muddy). I like the LED mode best.
I'm guessing this could be built much simpler and sound very similar. I don't think the charge pump would have much affect on the sound with LEDs or silicon diodes, it seems to me it's main function is to have louder clean headroom on the no-clipping mode. Also, the input/output buffers could be dismissed with not so much impact, like the son of screamer and so many similar pedals. But, even the full circuit goes pretty quick on the PCB. If you're breadboarding, I'd say strip it down.
