visualdistortion
Member
Hi, I did the Hylian Fuzz, all is wired correctly, not a lot of components, volume is HUGE but the control pot do litterally nothing on sound, or maybe a bit at one of the extreme. Anyone got the same issues? Thanks
Hylian Fuzz : issues with "control”
- Thread starter visualdistortion
- Start date
Betty Wont
Well-known member
The control knob should go from gated and farty ccw to wide open pulse wave type sound fully cw. I've tried to build a couple of these and couldn't get them to work like the originals. same type of issue you are having. I used to build these on contract for the company and we used generic parts and got the correct result every time.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Torgoslayer,
Have you tried comparing the original build dwgs with the pedalPCB build docs? When you were building these under contract, did Devi Ever supply the transistors? Is it possible they were selected for hfe or something else before you got them? This is a crazy circuit and may be very dependent on transistor parameters.
One more thing, this circuit is very dependent on where it is located in the pedal chain. Make sure you are driving it directly from your guitar (and you have passive pickups) and not from another pedal.
Have you tried comparing the original build dwgs with the pedalPCB build docs? When you were building these under contract, did Devi Ever supply the transistors? Is it possible they were selected for hfe or something else before you got them? This is a crazy circuit and may be very dependent on transistor parameters.
One more thing, this circuit is very dependent on where it is located in the pedal chain. Make sure you are driving it directly from your guitar (and you have passive pickups) and not from another pedal.
Betty Wont
Well-known member
The pedalpcb version is missing a 100nf cap, and a 10k resistor from what I remember. and there was no reverse polarity diode or power filtering. The Bit was made up from two separate pcbs, the first a simple boost (33) , and the second a dark fuzz (GZ). The control pot came off of the the input of the GZ, and the volume was at the input of the 33. We got transistors from mouser, and never tested them. These are very tolerant of gains.
Robert
Reverse Engineer
Going by these pics the schematic appears to be correct... the only difference I see here is that the output cap of the first stage and input cap of the second stage are both intact. This could be replicated by changing C2 to 47nF.
This would have to be the "missing" 100nF... The resistor count seems to be correct.
Aside from that, the remaining circuit structure seems to be correct. Control is connected to input of first stage, volume is just a master volume from the output of the last stage.
This would have to be the "missing" 100nF... The resistor count seems to be correct.
Aside from that, the remaining circuit structure seems to be correct. Control is connected to input of first stage, volume is just a master volume from the output of the last stage.
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Betty Wont
Well-known member
the Silver Crank is the same circuit as the 33. just a name change. Devi didn't know how to read or write schematics back then and I know that a huge packet of schematics and design elements was compiled and shared by her forum members, but most were attempts at using design logic (which devi had none) to figure out how to wire them up. They were all direct wired etched pcbs that were wrapped up in electrical tape and left flying in the box. There were no BOM or schematics to work off of, just a simple hand drawn diagram that showed where the wires attached. I remember it being a very strange configuration. The Hyperion and Ruiner were made from two cascading circuits wired the same way as well. The JHS Astro Mess was copied from incorrect online data about the Hyperion. Googling Bit schematics gives like 5 different interpretations, some with the extra 100nf/10k, some without. I wish I still had my notes on this one.
visualdistortion
Member
Maybe I can take a video and show you what my build does. Bit it's not a really complicated build, not a lot of components, apart the fact that a transistor can be bad maybe? I don't know the issue here. Mine seems to be always in gate mode and I need to strum strings hard to get sound, on the control pot, I don't have sound to 0 to 2, after to 2 to 6 it's like little fart (need to really strum strings hard), 6 to 10 seems more traditional (but always need to strum it strong).
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visualdistortion
Member
I did some test again on my real amp, and yes it's like that, so I think that something is faulty here
visualdistortion
Member
I juste tried, so 0 to 2 NO sound, 2 to 6 gated fuzz (need to strum hard), 6 to 10 better fuzz. I don't know if it's like the original.
visualdistortion
Member
Hum finally after testing more, IT'S REALLY GATED, like pratically unusable under 8 and no so sound between 0 and 3.5 (and after really need to strum like an idiot. Better than the other way, for the transistor, but something it's wrong
My 2 cents for what it's worth. Flipped 2N2907A and its def a more usable pedal for me. I would say 7-10 o-clock almost nothing. 10-11 o'clock is pretty gated with 11 being the "video game" type tones you'd expect from this pedal. 11 - 5/5:30 o clock gnarly fuzz tones and very loud! I had it at 9 o'clock and I almost killed my dog though my twin reverb. For what it's worth too I'm playing through an SG with humbuckers so I imagine if @visualdistortion is doing single coils he'd had different results.
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visualdistortion
Member
I use Les Paul with sh4 pickup, I really tested and looked some videos and a lot of people have sound on the ”1” position and have sustain, I really don't have sustain on it. I did a video, I will upload in few hours
Ya, I agree. In vids I've seen, there def is a pretty strong signal in the lower settings on the control knob, which I'm not getting either, but flipping the transistor @PedalPCB helped for me! I don't have to stum like an idiot anymore to get a signal. @PedalPCB let us know what you find out.
Thanks for the help.
