Inspired by Clark Deluxe

HamishR

Well-known member
I don't know if anyone is interested in yet another amp-build, but here one is! I built this just before the Vox.

This is a 5E3 inspired by a wonderful Clark Beaufort that a friend brought around a few months ago. I was really impressed with that amp - it was easily the best sounding commercially available 5E3 I have heard. And it was built along very traditional lines - dead-on the original circuit and yes too bassy, but not so much that it was unusable. So I thought I have to see if I can replicate this! Normally my thing is to use a bigger PT and up the filtering slightly to get a more solid, less flubby low-end. Yet here was an amp with standard-sized transformers, no choke and yet it sounded quite tight.

I know one of Clark's selling points is that he uses a PT with a lower B+ to simulate 1950s wall voltage. When these amps were first built apparently US wall voltage was more like 110VAC but now it's more like 120VAC. When you multiply that by 3-4 as the PT does it makes for a significantly higher B+, which will make the amp sound slightly harder perhaps and increase headroom (in theory) unless it's exceeds the power tubes' operating limits.

So I bought a self-leaded '59 5E3 OT and a '59-style PT with a slightly lower B+ from Mercury Magnetics, shunned the choke I normally used and put a 5K 5W resistor there instead, and built a dead-stock 5E3. After testing I found it bassier sounding than the Clark, so I went through it and reduced coupling cap values and cathode bypass caps too until I arrived at an amp which is still plenty full sounding but doesn't have so much low-end that it interferes with the break-up or booms. There is still a lot of low end!

I also spent the time to get the bias to just under 100%. It really makes a huge difference. Most 5E3s are biased way high as the stock 250-270R cathode resistor is way too small. Usually I have to use a 470 or 560. But with this one because I used a lower B+ transformer the 270R is spot on.

This has to be the best sounding 5E3 I have yet built, if you are using the amp with few pedals. The entire range of the volume pot is usable. With a 335 or Les Paul it's breaking up in an incredibly musical way with volume at around 4-5, and sounds completely early Billy Gibbons at 6-7. I was going to sell it but after hearing a friend who is a much better player than me put it through its paces I can't let it go!

Lo Dlx ex.JPG


Lo Dlx int.JPG
 
I used to like the G12H Anniversary, but since the Creambacks came out no more Annis for me! I really like the H Creambacks - in some cases I prefer them over the Gold. I love the Gold in some amps but the difference isn't as great as it used to be, and the price of the Creamback is excellent.
 
Another awesome build. Do you order premade turrent boards or make your own from blanks? I've almost pulled the trigger on Mojotones tweed kit few times. I figured I'd do some more research first because it might be better to source my own parts that differ from the kit stuff, like bigger filter caps or better transformers. I read a little on the Robin Robinnette site about his tweaks.
 
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Another awesome build. Do you order premade turrent boards or make your own from blanks? I've almost pulled the trigger on Mojotones tweed kit few times. I figured I'd do some more research first because it might be better to source my own parts that differ from the kit stuff, like bigger filter caps or better transformers. I read a little on the Robin Robinnette site about his tweaks.
The kits are a good way of building a first amp, but as you say we might like to deviate from stock frequently!

With a 5E3 my advice would probably be to stay close to stock the first time. The main issue is bias, and while that may seem daunting at first it's not really and makes a huge difference. The good thing about these amps is that you don't have to build it and then that's it - it easy to make changes over time. They are designed to be worked on. Rob Robinette's site is a fantastic resource. But again, I would keep things simple at first. His mods are cool but mostly I don't need them. With a Deluxe the main things are taming the huge low end and bias. These are easy things to do - you just need some extra caps and bias resistors.

I get the tagboard, the chassis and some parts from Mojo, and most of the parts from tubesandmore.com. I get a lot of transformers from Mercury Magnetics which can be expensive. I use them not just because they are good but because they offer options the others don't, like various B+ options, bigger iron for better low-end, and different era repros. For this 5E3 I used a MM PT with a lower B+. Lowering the operating voltage, or plate voltage, makes the tubes clip a little earlier. The lower the voltage, the less headroom you have. If you use a dead-stock PT you may find that the plate voltage is higher than you see written on the old Fender layouts - that's because US wall voltages are higher today. Generally it doesn't make a massive difference - you just get a little more headroom in the amp.

The main thing I don't like about kits is usually the caps. I like to use Sozo, Mallory 150s for coupling caps and F+T for the the electrolytics. For some of the smaller electros I use Sprague or Nichicon. I don't like orange drops or IC electros.

Thanks everyone - I'm glad I posted!
 
I can't remember but I think it was the 350V. It was whatever was one step down from stock. I don't like going too low because I don't think they sound very good. And to replicate 10V drop at the wall doesn't take that much.
 
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Thanks. I think 380v is stock. I just received the last bits to put together my first Deluxe. Reading your build reports has definitely been an inspiration to me, and admittedly was closely eyeing Rob’s mods but decided to stay on the path at least until I have a couple more builds behind me. Your comment above made me feel even better about that decision. (y)
 
Thanks. I think 380v is stock. I just received the last bits to put together my first Deluxe. Reading your build reports has definitely been an inspiration to me, and admittedly was closely eyeing Rob’s mods but decided to stay on the path at least until I have a couple more builds behind me. Your comment above made me feel even better about that decision. (y)
You can always go back and mod it later after you get some play time and are more familiar with the amp
 
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Well as I said, I built this one as largely stock then changed caps as I felt necessary until it sounded how I liked it. It's easy to do because these amps were designed to be serviced. That was what set Leo's designs apart really - the ability to service them easily. I like to live with the amp a little before making changes. The amp tells you what you want to do!

Earlier this year I built another 5F4 tweed Super as a 1x12. Previously I had built one with a bigger PT so I could use EL34s as power tubes, but this one was built to use up parts I already had so with the stock style PT I could only run 6L6s. I've played it for months now with 6L6s but the time has come to upgrade the PT to a MM "Fatstack" PT so I can run KT77s. They sound like a bigger EL34. I love the extra midrange punch they have, while still sounding as sparkly as a 6L6. So I have the transformer on the way and it's not a very big job to change it over. I'll probably have to tweak the bias circuit a little but it's not a big deal.

Mercury also make transformers so that you can run 6L6s more efficiently in a 5E3, for example. There's so much you can do. If you don't have the facility to make your own cabs then Mojo will make you a cab - I got a 5F4 cab in 'gator skin tolex with a 1x12 baffle from them and it's beautifully made. Fairly priced too, if you live in the US and don't have to pay for international shipping!
 
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