@PedalPCB
I have a bunch of questions about this module. A single coil relay like the Kemet EA2-5SNJ can't have a flyback diode because it needs reverse polarity to turn off, right? But how does it get away with being connected directly to the microprocessor? Also, why an ATTiny13A? Maybe more available at the time? I have had a bunch of ATTiny85s for like 20 years, so I am out of touch there. I built a 4 footswitch effects loop switcher with an Arduino Nano and got it all working with an OLED screen and rotary encoder with push in switch, but I didn't separate the ground traces properly which resulted in terrible digital whine. I had to scrap it and start over becuase the cost of the big PCB it required was a too much to keep trying. How did you accomplish this separation in such a small board?
I modularized my big 4 switch/loop PCB into single loop/footswitch/relay combinations (5 PCBs for much less - I can afford to make mistakes at that cost). I am using a CD4013, a TQ2-L2-5V, flyback diodes, and PN2222A transistors between the flip-flop and relay. I too have a remote trigger (write) and also a remote state (read) for an external Arduino. It's been a challenge. I think I have the debouncing working but with it just on my bench and average momentary switches, I cannot yet guarantee debouncing is 100%. My next step was to add a Schmitt Trigger to guarantee the switching is solid. Robert seem to have a much simpler yet rock solid design. how did you it? Any advice? Thanks.
I have a bunch of questions about this module. A single coil relay like the Kemet EA2-5SNJ can't have a flyback diode because it needs reverse polarity to turn off, right? But how does it get away with being connected directly to the microprocessor? Also, why an ATTiny13A? Maybe more available at the time? I have had a bunch of ATTiny85s for like 20 years, so I am out of touch there. I built a 4 footswitch effects loop switcher with an Arduino Nano and got it all working with an OLED screen and rotary encoder with push in switch, but I didn't separate the ground traces properly which resulted in terrible digital whine. I had to scrap it and start over becuase the cost of the big PCB it required was a too much to keep trying. How did you accomplish this separation in such a small board?
I modularized my big 4 switch/loop PCB into single loop/footswitch/relay combinations (5 PCBs for much less - I can afford to make mistakes at that cost). I am using a CD4013, a TQ2-L2-5V, flyback diodes, and PN2222A transistors between the flip-flop and relay. I too have a remote trigger (write) and also a remote state (read) for an external Arduino. It's been a challenge. I think I have the debouncing working but with it just on my bench and average momentary switches, I cannot yet guarantee debouncing is 100%. My next step was to add a Schmitt Trigger to guarantee the switching is solid. Robert seem to have a much simpler yet rock solid design. how did you it? Any advice? Thanks.