Jfet sockets and Sky Blue Dual gang pot

mywmyw

Active member
I'm using sockets for my jfets (specifically these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/co...n-dip-sip-ic-sockets-adaptor-solder-type.html) for the first time, and I've noticed that the component legs are quite loose inside the socket holes. What do you all do to remedy this? Did I get the wrong socket type? Or are these meant to be soldered into ?

Also, Ive all but finished a Sky Blue, it requires a 20k Linear dual gang pot. Haven't been able to find one that is pcb mount. Would a 10k or 50k be a workable sub? Or is there a workaround?
 
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I don't usually use sockets, but when I do I always solder the transistor to the socket when I'm finished with the build.

Tayda has B20K Linear dual pots with solder pins / splined shaft. Not ideal, but they technically can be used.
 
I do the same thing when i use sil sockets. Once i know the part is sounding right in the circuit then i will solder it in place.

The tayda sockets are loose for whatever reason, if you get the ones from smallbear they hold the part in better but are quite a bit more expensive.
 
I usually bend the pins on transistors to put some side pressure on the sockets so they have some friction holding them in place. I have not been soldering them into place, but that strikes me as a great idea.
 
I don't usually use sockets, but when I do I always solder the transistor to the socket when I'm finished with the build.

Tayda has B20K Linear dual pots with solder pins / splined shaft. Not ideal, but they technically can be used.

My last ADHD build ended up being problematic, and my suspicion is that I fried one of the jfets soldering (although I use a nice hakko and good technique) so I am hoping to avoid that route. Although my suspicion isn't based on any hard evidence so maybe I'm just being a princess.

I bought a dual gang 50k pot, guess i could clip the legs and transplant them onto the other one you suggested.
 
Regarding keeping the socketed transistors firmly seated, a little hot glue will also do the trick (with less chance of overheating the transistor, and easily removable if needed.)
 
Recently soldered a dual gang pot to a 5x5 strip of vero board using the same drilling technique used on all vero builds to break the connections between the bottom and top pot rows. It worked great, and you can always cut longer pieces of board if you want to make it easier to solder multiple connections/grounds to that pot.
 
Everywhere I'm seeing the texture is a 1kB? is the 20kB intentional, or is there another schematic floating around?

It was intentional, it was based on a schematic that was traced by someone a while back. I do realize it's a bit different from the ones floating around, and after comparing them I don't see any reason why the dual ganged pot was necessary. Technically you could manipulate the pins on a single ganged pot (B20K or B1K, whichever you'd prefer) to fit the PCB...
 
It was intentional, it was based on a schematic that was traced by someone a while back. I do realize it's a bit different from the ones floating around, and after comparing them I don't see any reason why the dual ganged pot was necessary. Technically you could manipulate the pins on a single ganged pot (B20K or B1K, whichever you'd prefer) to fit the PCB...
It was intentional, it was based on a schematic that was traced by someone a while back. I do realize it's a bit different from the ones floating around, and after comparing them I don't see any reason why the dual ganged pot was necessary. Technically you could manipulate the pins on a single ganged pot (B20K or B1K, whichever you'd prefer) to fit the PCB...

well i wish you had cause i still havent finished this build cause i never fuck with vero board and i don't have any.
 
Use a normal 16mm single ganged pot, B1K or B20K (your choice, depending on which schematic you want to go with).

Mount it like normal in the lower set of pads, but bend pin 3 of the pot forward to fit in the pad on the second gang.

Blue - Pin 1
Green - Pin 2
Red - Pin 3

Skylight.jpg
 
There must be a big dead-band in the middle of the Texture control if you use a 20K pot. Bjorn Juhl likes to use linear taper pots for Volume, but I find it hard to dial in unity and usually go with audio taper. I modded a Joyo clone of the Sweet Honey and ended up switching the volume to audio taper.
 
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