JHS LITTLE BLACK BUFFER(VERO)
- Thread starter delackattack
- Start date
BuddytheReow
Breadboard Baker
Run a hot iron down the tracks of each row to clean them up. You may also want to take a solder sucker on some of those since it looks like a lot of excess
delackattack
Member
Gotcha, i have done this a couple of times so far and the result has been the same. After hitting it with the probe, i start to loose signal after the first cut on the first row.
jimilee
Well-known member
Get a magnifier and check for stray pieces of copper. Also, make sure your layout matches the layout. Once or twice mine have looked like I was drunk when I built it.
Brett
Well-known member
I could be completely wrong, but is your component layout flipped horizontally from the layout you posted?
delackattack
Member
this could be the case as well, but i was sure i place my components on the side without copper traces
flemming
Well-known member
The layout diagram is as-if you were looking through the component side. Your components are on the correct side of the board, but your layout and holes look like they are all mirror images of what they should be.
delackattack
Member
Fuck
I guess i need to start over and reverse the components???
jimilee
Well-known member
It happens. I would make a mirrored image of the layout and try again. Been there too.
swyse
Well-known member
Everything is done from the perspective of the top side without copper tracks, so when you do the cuts under you have to do it how they would be on the top. When I was doing vero I would just mark the cuts with a sharpie and it was enough to see on the other side. then your board with components should look identical to the picture presented when finished
swyse
Well-known member
Someone else should double check my logic here, but since you mirrored everything you might be able to place the IC on the copper side of the board if I'm looking at this right. Right now you have all the pins swapped left to right with how it is, but everything else is in place relative to the mirror.
BuddytheReow
Breadboard Baker
What helps me for vero layouts is to take a sharpie on the component mounting side to all the holes that need to be cut. Then I flip it over on a white piece of paper and can see which ones I need to cut the traces for. It takes a bit more time but takes all the guess work out.
cdwillis
Well-known member
I mark all my cuts on the component side with a sharpie. Double check it, sit in on a 2x4 scrap board, then drill through each one with a 1/8" drill bit (might be a 3/16" bit). When they're all done I take my multimeter and run it around those cuts to make sure I don't have continuity along the cut traces. Now if I have two that are right next to each other drilling can get a little weird, so I'll drill the first one then turn it over and drill the second one just enough to remove the trace.
Before I did that I would stick a clipped off resistor leg through each cut, flip the board so I could see the spot to cut, then manually turn a drill bit to make the cut in the trace. This was way too time consuming.
Before I did that I would stick a clipped off resistor leg through each cut, flip the board so I could see the spot to cut, then manually turn a drill bit to make the cut in the trace. This was way too time consuming.
Mark is a good fella but I don't use many of his layouts. He does some weird stuff with placement. When I see a layout like that I'll sometimes redraw it how I like it even though I'll probably never build it! That's the anal side showing up I'm afraid!
You don't need to labour the solder so much.The copper trances on Vero will wick the solder very fast if you heat it for a second with your iron. The only time I ever have problems is with older components where the wire is corroded. If the wire is dull grey and slightly rough to the feel I'll use a little wet+dry paper or even a rough pencil eraser to take of the corrosion. The solders should all be shiny and silver and have a nice "blob" to them. You need to use a fine point on the iron and make sure it's clean and shiny with solder. It looks to me like there might be a bridge or two on the top two rows. It doesn't need to be much - you might struggle to see it, but even a tiny piece of crud can create a circuit defeating bridge.
You don't need to labour the solder so much.The copper trances on Vero will wick the solder very fast if you heat it for a second with your iron. The only time I ever have problems is with older components where the wire is corroded. If the wire is dull grey and slightly rough to the feel I'll use a little wet+dry paper or even a rough pencil eraser to take of the corrosion. The solders should all be shiny and silver and have a nice "blob" to them. You need to use a fine point on the iron and make sure it's clean and shiny with solder. It looks to me like there might be a bridge or two on the top two rows. It doesn't need to be much - you might struggle to see it, but even a tiny piece of crud can create a circuit defeating bridge.
At the risk of being a show-off skitey wanker, here is how I would lay it out. No stretching caps out further than they want to go.
Also, if you're worried about getting the layout backwards you cab flip the image in Preview. Under Tools select Flip horizontal and this happens:
Now you have a layout for the reverse of the board where you need to drill the holes/clear the copper.
Also, if you're worried about getting the layout backwards you cab flip the image in Preview. Under Tools select Flip horizontal and this happens:
Now you have a layout for the reverse of the board where you need to drill the holes/clear the copper.
Last edited:
delackattack
Member
Gonna be giving this a go as soon as Im off work! Thank you very much, guys!
delackattack
Member
So make the cuts THEN flip the image and place the components in their corresponding spots?
BuddytheReow
Breadboard Baker
Looking at the OP, both layouts show what to do when looking at the board component side up. When you flip the board over you will need to mirror it when making the actual cuts. FOr example, the top row: there is a cut to be made on the 4th column from the left when you are looking at the board from the component side. When you actually make the cut, flip the board over horizontally and make the cut on the 4th hole from the right. When you flip the board back over to put in components you will have a cut made on the 4th from the left. If it's still confusing take a look at my above post and use a sharpie.
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