Kliche Mini Special Edition (but why.....?) Updated

MichaelW

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
......because...well...it's special.....:)

I think I may have gotten one of the first batch of these as I don't see them for sale yet on the website.
But when @Robert asked me if I wanted to build one was like "Hell YAH baby!"

Like the world needs another Klon clone right? :ROFLMAO:

But this one is way cool, I dunno why but when @Robert posted a pic of it on his Workbench thread I knew I had to build it!

As far as the board is concerned, it's pretty much a Mini Kliche with a different layout, 9mm pots to accommodate the diagonal placement. (Coming back to that later). There's the PedalPCB addition of the 1n5817 and a 100r resistor that's part of the reverse polarity protection.
(I don't recall the 100r on the full size Kliche.)

So I already have 2 Klon's one is the AionFX mini version that's running BAT41's (may revisit that). Then the Chuck D. Bones Bass Klon version featured in this thread.

I generally never use them as there are always better sounding standalone overdrives that I prefer and I'm not using mine to boost an amp or another pedal. So why build another one? Well, because it's cool!

Now about my build: This has been a week full of faux pas's for me. Missing components, amps not turned on, scuffed finishes on non-curing paint jobs.....why would I have expected my Friday build to escape unscathed? heh.. (Actually my Spirit Box build was totally smooth and uneventful).

So when Robert sent me the message about the board he told I'd need 9mm pots for this. So I threw them on a Tayda order. Pretty surprised when DHL showed up at my house today, less than a week after placing the order! (no enclosures, just bits and bobs).

I didn't get started until late afternoon and was thinking about whether I was going to build anything today since I wrapped up my Spirit Box in the morning. Technically counted it as a Friday build. But when those 9mm pots showed up, and I had everything else (or so I thought) I decided to get started with it. I had a Dark Gold Tayda 125B that I've been saving for something....turns out it was this pedal! I also had a set of Oxblood Mini Davies knobs. So I was all set.

I will mention at this point that I absolutely detest 9mm pots. I've only had to use them once (on my Tourbus) and completely forgot the lessons learned from that build. What I realized is that if I press the pots right to the board, solder them first, then there's not enough thread coming through on "some" of the thicker finished Tayda enclosures for the nut to get a bite on the threads. I figured out that what works is to clip the pots in place on the board, put the board into the box, tighten the nuts then solder what's left of the legs showing.

Well all that went out the window and I completely forgot all that with this build. I soldered the pots onto the board (pressing tight against the board) and guess what......not enough thread showing....sigh. I had to gently cinch them up with just the nut and no washer for now until I get in some replacement pots. Why do I need replacement pots you might be asking, why not just heat them up and move them a bit?

Well, here's why.....when I realized that soldering them on the board first not only made the shafts a bit too short, they were also a bit crooked. And unlike 16mm pots, you can't really adjust 9mm pots with the stabilizing nibs. Now that did that stop me from trying? Uhm, well no, I tried to gently use a pair of needle nose pliers and see of I could straight the pots a bit and very gently, in slow motion snapped the top off the dual gang B100k. This was followed up a long string of curses in orcish, entish and elvish. Then I tried to fix it by supergluing it back together and speed up the process by hitting it with a heat gun. :rolleyes:

I highly recommend this procedure......if you want to ruin your pots....hahah. Like an idiot I only ordered 1 dual gang, so it was worth a shot to make it work. And it does sorta work to my great surprise! There's drops out in parts of the rotation and parts where it's just the gain side or the clean side working. So it's pretty wonky. But there's one spot from about 8 o'clock to 10 o'clock where it sounds like the gain is dimed. In fact I wonder if I'm getting any clean mix at all. But it sounds freaking fantastic! Inadvertently I think I created a gain only Klon!

I built this to standard Kliche spec, no mods, just a couple subs. I found I didn't have any 68n caps so I paralleled a 47n and a 22n.
For all the electrolytic caps I used Tantalums. Now here's the interesting part and what set this Klon apart from my others. I was planning to test some different Ge Diodes in the "Magic Diodes" sockets, the first set I tried was the Mullard CV7364.These are glass vial radial diodes that measured pretty low in the Vf range. ~.230mv @10ma on my tester, I usually try to target the mid 300's on my Klon builds but may start experimenting with lower Vf diodes. These things break up early, real early and have the very cool "hollow-ish" sound to them that are quite unique to this model of the Mullards/Phillips Ge diodes. I absolutely love how they sound. I may stock up on some from Smallbear. (Or add some more to my stash I should probably say hah.) These and the Phillips OA9 and OA10 have given me a whole new outlook on Ge diodes.
Oh also, I was going for a very subtle "ghost" led look with a 3mm Red Waterclear diode. One other thing I totally forgot, is that these thick glossy metallic finished Tayda's do not like to be center punched. It cracks the powder coat. And my very precisely drilled and back beveled LED hole has some chips around it.

Super creamy, very high gain Klon version. Definitely a standalone overdrive the way it sounds right now. I hope I do't lose that when install the replacement pot I ordered. I suppose if it doesn't sound the same I can break that one too, super glue it and hit with a heat gun......:ROFLMAO:

Anyway, I'm obviously distracted with my builds this past week, probably a good sign for me to step away from the bench this weekend and just play guitar. We'll see.......:p

Thank you @Robert!

IMG_3886.JPG

IMG_3885.JPG

These WaterClear LEDs are super bright. I may change this to blue when I redo the pots.
IMG_3887.JPG
 
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Fantastic build, that gold really pops.

As for 9mm pots... I L❤️VE 'em. So versatile for sneaking in a mod to a build, or reducing a build's enclosure size, building 1590A of course they're de rigueur!

So, don't get bummed out by minimal thread counts, just get a piloted counter-bore bit...

4bc8f7c1-ce25-4a28-b16c-6e8b34566dc4.1fd8d86961569429ca360eb3f18cb145.jpeg


Pic and some interesting ... "discussion" from here.

An end-mill bit (correct-terminology?) could work, if using a drill-press, but since you need to have a hole for the pot-shaft anyway, I'd recommend a piloted counter-bore bit.

Since the hammond enclosure (and most enclonesures) thickness is about 1.75mm thick (.069), I would only shave off enough to counterbore the thickness of the pot's washer. Of course, you'll need to determine the diameter of the washer.

Counterbore%20and%20Countersink%20Pic.png


My friend had 2-flute bits and machined some beautiful counterbored holes in an enclosure for me, unfortunately I've no pics.

If you do purchase some bits, get 2 or 3 flutes, 4-flute not recommended for aluminum.

flute-count-for-aluminum.jpg








Also, Alpha 9mm pots are available with 20mm shafts (reg is 15mm), you can get them from THONK (and Alpha datasheets), not sure where in North America to get them.
 
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So I know we've had this discussion before about the different Tayda Golds, and I know I've mentioned that I'm slightly blue-green color blind. (Keeping in mind for us color blind folks, we do see colors, we just can't distinguish between certain colors as well......and it looks "normal" to us).

These different Tayda Golds, this was the "Dark Metallic Gold". It actually looks very "orange" to me in person. Is that how it looks to you?
It does not look like the picture on the website. But I know myself well enough not to trust what I see when it comes to colors......heh

A-6617.jpg
 
So I know we've had this discussion before about the different Tayda Golds, and I know I've mentioned that I'm slightly blue-green color blind. (Keeping in mind for us color blind folks, we do see colors, we just can't distinguish between certain colors as well......and it looks "normal" to us).

These different Tayda Golds, this was the "Dark Metallic Gold". It actually looks very "orange" to me in person. Is that how it looks to you?
It does not look like the picture on the website. But I know myself well enough not to trust what I see when it comes to colors......heh
Your first pic looks real good, you can see the metal flakes, and the dark golden hue.
In your second pic, it does look more orange, and it looks more textured than metallic.
So it might just be a question of lighting.
Haven't used a dark gold yet, but the metallic I used so far looked great, waiting on a regular golden one now.
 
Forgot to mention:

The extra 5mm on the 20mm Alphas is all thread. The smooth-top part of the shaft could be cut down so the overall height remains at a normal Alpha 15mm.

Lotta extra work either way.
I like the look of the counter-bored holes, and prefer them to longer pot-shafts.
 
I didn't have any issues with the thread length and the Light Gold powdercoated enclosure from Tayda.

There wouldn't have been enough length for a faceplate, but there was enough for the nuts to thread on tightly.

I mounted them flat against the PCB before installing, but I always clip the little "nibs" off with diagonal cutters so they sit flush against the enclosure.
 
That knob layout just looks good. I've never worked with 9mm pots, but it's good to know to look out! Hopefully you still like it the same after you get the pot fixed. The enclosure looks like metallic tantalum capacitor color to me.
 
I didn't have any issues with the thread length and the Light Gold powdercoated enclosure from Tayda.

There wouldn't have been enough length for a faceplate, but there was enough for the nuts to thread on tightly.

I mounted them flat against the PCB before installing, but I always clip the little "nibs" off with diagonal cutters so they sit flush against the enclosure.
Hmmmmm, did I miss the nibs? I didn't see any.
Maybe that was the issue?

You mean this?

Untitled.jpg
 
Fantastic build, that gold really pops.

As for 9mm pots... I L❤️VE 'em. So versatile for sneaking in a mod to a build, or reducing a build's enclosure size, building 1590A of course they're de rigueur!

So, don't get bummed out by minimal thread counts, just get a piloted counter-bore bit...

4bc8f7c1-ce25-4a28-b16c-6e8b34566dc4.1fd8d86961569429ca360eb3f18cb145.jpeg


Pic and some interesting ... "discussion" from here.

An end-mill bit (correct-terminology?) could work, if using a drill-press, but since you need to have a hole for the pot-shaft anyway, I'd recommend a piloted counter-bore bit.

Since the hammond enclosure (and most enclonesures) thickness is about 1.75mm thick (.069), I would only shave off enough to counterbore the thickness of the pot's washer. Of course, you'll need to determine the diameter of the washer.

Counterbore%20and%20Countersink%20Pic.png


My friend had 2-flute bits and machined some beautiful counterbored holes in an enclosure for me, unfortunately I've no pics.

If you do purchase some bits, get 2 or 3 flutes, 4-flute not recommended for aluminum.

flute-count-for-aluminum.jpg








Also, Alpha 9mm pots are available with 20mm shafts (reg is 15mm), you can get them from THONK (and Alpha datasheets), not sure where in North America to get them.
Dude, that is entirely too much work...hahahaha. And bought a drill press that I don't use, I drill everything by hand.

I'm actually thinking about converting this to 16mm pots. there's plenty of room in the enclosure, I just need to make sure I insulate the legs on the dual gang and use some buss wire to make the connections to the board.

I get what you're saying about sneaking a mod into a build with 9mm pots but there's just a "fragility" to them that bugs me. But I also get that sometimes you have to go small or not go.

I've got 9mm pots in my Tourbus build. But it's "set and forget" for me on that pedal. I also have a couple of inflight projects with some custom made boards by members here that require 9mm pots. I haven't gotten to them yet but I'm going make a note to myself to triple check before soldering. And remember to cut the nibs off..... :ROFLMAO:
 
lucky dog... I had that one in my waiting list soon as I saw it..! Nice Work as always... He knew you'd have one whipped out with a build report before anyone else... haha
 
That looks really good. I ended up selling my 1590bb klone to a buddy of mine and now I'm thinking I should build this version for myself.
 
Might build the Boneyard bass version on this PCB, but then again, I'd be wiring the dual-gang as two separate single-gang pots... so maybe stock on this and bass version on Kliché Mini or other PCB...

Hail hail the gang's all here.


NIBS!

54410_Twz_Nib_BLKLCRC_Shot03_Group_1332_psd_2048x.jpg
 
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