Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Here are some technical details of the Dirty Sanchez to Complex OD transformation that I posted in Build Reports.
Because the ref des are different between the two circuits, we'll refer to the Complex OD Build Docs.
All of the capacitors are the same except...
C9 is 220pF vs 120pF.
C14 is new. If installed, it has to be patched in parallel with R20.
The complex has two more power supply bypass caps (C102 & C105). Nice, but not req'd.
C100 is 100uF on the Sanchez, 47uF on the Complex. Either value works. Since more is better here, I went with 100uF.
All diodes are the same between the two units. I subbed 1N4004 for D1 & D3 to smooth out the clipping a little. I learned that trick from HamishR; he learned it from J. Rockett. Credit where credit is due.
All opamps are the same.
Resistors, here's when it gets fun.
I always use my own value for the LED resistor (R107, 22K) because the Aqua LEDs I use are Sofa King bright.
R20 is 2.2K on the Sanchez, 47K on the Complex.
I jumpered R25 and R26 on the Sanchez board, and omitted the TIGHT switch. No other jumpers!
The Sanchez's trimpot takes the place of R16 on the Complex.
All pots are the same, except...
There's no STRUCT switch on the Sanchez and I didn't feel the need for one. It sets the GAIN range on the Complex. I made the GAIN pot A500K, which is a compromise between the two positions of the STRUCT switch. If you like to use only the top end of the GAIN range, then go with B500K or B1M.
I subbed B100K for the MID pot. It has a better feel than A100K.
The same game could be played on the Brown Betty or Thermionic Deluxe boards, just keep track of the ref des because they are not all the same. I was very very careful and managed to have it work the first time I powered it up. It could have easily gone the other way.
Because the ref des are different between the two circuits, we'll refer to the Complex OD Build Docs.
All of the capacitors are the same except...
C9 is 220pF vs 120pF.
C14 is new. If installed, it has to be patched in parallel with R20.
The complex has two more power supply bypass caps (C102 & C105). Nice, but not req'd.
C100 is 100uF on the Sanchez, 47uF on the Complex. Either value works. Since more is better here, I went with 100uF.
All diodes are the same between the two units. I subbed 1N4004 for D1 & D3 to smooth out the clipping a little. I learned that trick from HamishR; he learned it from J. Rockett. Credit where credit is due.
All opamps are the same.
Resistors, here's when it gets fun.
I always use my own value for the LED resistor (R107, 22K) because the Aqua LEDs I use are Sofa King bright.
R20 is 2.2K on the Sanchez, 47K on the Complex.
I jumpered R25 and R26 on the Sanchez board, and omitted the TIGHT switch. No other jumpers!
The Sanchez's trimpot takes the place of R16 on the Complex.
All pots are the same, except...
There's no STRUCT switch on the Sanchez and I didn't feel the need for one. It sets the GAIN range on the Complex. I made the GAIN pot A500K, which is a compromise between the two positions of the STRUCT switch. If you like to use only the top end of the GAIN range, then go with B500K or B1M.
I subbed B100K for the MID pot. It has a better feel than A100K.
The same game could be played on the Brown Betty or Thermionic Deluxe boards, just keep track of the ref des because they are not all the same. I was very very careful and managed to have it work the first time I powered it up. It could have easily gone the other way.