Nope, they’re all just like building a normal pedal, except they’ll shock you.
I just left space, just enough for airflow.
I hear that guy has sketchy stuff….Bwahahahaha that’s fine.And, the project requires a J201 which I see a lot of talk about fakes and even real ones being out of spec. This would be a good choice right:
Oh great, thank you! I might get them. But after seeing that, I see these on Tayda:
www.taydaelectronics.com
guitarpcb.com
I have hundreds of J201 JFETs from GuitarPCB. They are all genuine Fairchild devices. I ran every one of them across my Peak Atlas DCA75 and they're perfect. Right now, they're still on sale there at GuitarPCB. I just ordered another 50 today.Oh! PedalPCB is out of the pre-soldered J201s but I remembered I have some of these from a project I never started on:
JFET J201 - Very Limited Supply - GuitarPCB
Genuine J201 JFET Transistor from my own personal collection. Batch tested with a proper (JFET exclusive) testing circuit for guaranteed results.
After I bought them I kept reading about fakes so when I did need some I bought the PedalPCB pre-soldered ones. But, any reason I couldn't use one of the above?
Thanks. After I made this post I remembered I use 2 of the ones I bought in something else a year ago. There were many issues but the j202s were not one of them!
I just ordered the 9mm pots for it today from SPB. I "think" I have everything else. So probably next week sometime.Oh great, thank you! I might get them. But after seeing that, I see these on Tayda:
Heat Sink TO-220 8 Fins 20mm Aluminium Black
Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
It looks like the are the same? Except for that pin, what's that for? And minus a screw?
When are you going to start your Archibald? I'm ordering the PCB today and putting together orders on Tayda and Love My Switches for the parts.
Do you understand what the build docs are describing here?
"The best approach is to attach a heatsink to the regulator, then float it a few mm above rather than screw
it directly through the PCB (as I did on my build). Leaving an air gap below the regulator improves heat dissipation."
I am planning on having the regulator float above the pcb by several millimeters as stated in the build docs.
It was designed to be in a closed enclosure, so really anything you do is going to be purely cosmetic. Make it YOUR OWN!Since this tube based pedal is new territory for me, I’ve been thinking about this build. I received the enclosure from Love My Switches yesterday.
I was planning on drilling holes in the enclosure above where the tube sits for heat dissipation but if it’s the
If the regulator that gets hot, maybe the holes should be drilled around that area. Or both, because it would be neat to see the tube.
i don’t know, what does anyone think? Maybe I’m just overthinking this.
This is DIY, go with what you got. i use MLCC and ceramic. Sometimes I put them in parallel to add up to what I need.
