Magnetron Mods! Havoc Switch & Outer Gain Pot?

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

I would like to build a Magnetron Delay with mods that have done before here in the forum but am having doubts whether my notes are correct after reading through previous posts.

Here are some previous posts on the topic of the momentary havoc switch: Danbieranowski's & jjjimi84's

Here's what I want:
1. A momentary oscillation footswitch
2. A top mounted potentiometer that replaces the internal trimpot for gain.

For the momentary footswitch, is it the same one used for the Relay Bypass Modules?

Is this right?

 

[twebb6778]

I've done this for the Dark Rift delay and it's heaps of fun! For the oscillation footswitch you want an SPST momentary NO. That way pressing the footswitch will short the feedback pot via your tripmot.

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

I've done this for the Dark Rift delay and it's heaps of fun! For the oscillation footswitch you want an SPST momentary NO. That way pressing the footswitch will short the feedback pot via your tripmot.

I'm pretty sure that's what I have. When I hook the footswitch up to my DMM's continuity test it beeps when I depress the switch and is silent when not pressed. Does that sound right?

Any idea if my hookups look right for the trimpot?

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Also, on the topic of mods. Not sure if I understood it fully, but I believe it was Chuck D. Bones who said that if you replace D1 & D2 with schottkey's the oscillation will be quieter? If I read that right I may put sockets there to try it out.

 

[twebb6778]

Yep, continuity when depressed is what you want! The trimpot looks good too.

I'm not familiar with the diode mod, but it's definitely worth socketing to try it out. Let us know how you go!

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Ok cool. Thanks heaps!

 

[Danbieranowski]

Yep what you got is good to go! This is a fun mod. Be aware that LED1 is the indicator for the speed and depth of the modulation. LED2 is your bypass LED. I mixed them up the first time like a goof.

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Yep what you got is good to go! This is a fun mod. Be aware that LED1 is the indicator for the speed and depth of the modulation. LED2 is your bypass LED. I mixed them up the first time like a goof.

Sweet! Thanks for your post, it really helped. I am going to omit the LFO LED all together. When I built my first one I didn't like how it was always on with the pedal bypassed. I don't really need to see the modulation anyway. Hehe.

 

[Danbieranowski]

EDIT - THIS POST IS IRRELEVANT TO THE MAGNETRON AND ONLY MATTERS FOR OTHER SIMILAR PEDALS THAT DON'T HAVE THESE DIODES IN THE PATH: Regarding the diode mod, I think you want to ADD diodes to the path like the Disaster Transport Jr. This allows the infinite sustain without it ever overloading from what I understand. See the image below for the two diodes you would want to experiment with adding to the path (circled in red).

 

[Danbieranowski]

EDIT: I realize that my post above isn't relevant to this anymore, as I just checked the Magnetron and realized that it already has diodes to ground in that spot. I was thinking of the Spiritbox. I'm going to leave it in case anyone searches for this info in the future.

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Ok, so it's all together. Can confirm it works, almost. Somewhere between out of the enclosure and installed in the enclosure I'm getting some issue. I'll probably post to troubleshooting if I can't dubug it myself, which will most likely be the case. haha. There's gotta be something grounded poorly because sometimes the feedback pot works perfectly and ideal wet/dry signal is balanced nicely...then other times I only get one repeat and the dry signal is slightly quieter than both the repeats and bypassed volume.

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Yep what you got is good to go! This is a fun mod. Be aware that LED1 is the indicator for the speed and depth of the modulation. LED2 is your bypass LED. I mixed them up the first time like a goof.

Funny you mention it because I was very conscious of which one to solder because I wanted to omit the LFO indicator all together. Lo and behold, they are reversed on the build docs to what is actually on the board. 1 is the active/bypass indicator and 2 is the LFO. I thought I was going crazy when it didn't light up upon firing up. We might have done the same thing.

 

[Danbieranowski]

Hopefully if anyone has that issue they will read your post and catch the mistake!