Just use the 3mm red from Tayda Electronics. I got the board this week and twisted it up after work. WOW! Best Overdrive I have played in my opinion! Enjoy!Is there any spec's for the LED's? Thanks in aJu
Yeah, I just used these from Tayda, Red Diffused, 3mm, Forward voltage@IF=20mA: 2.0-2.2V, Luminous intensity(MCD): 4,000 - 6,000 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/round-leds/3mm-leds/led-3mm-red.htmlThe original had 3mm Red Diffused, Vf around 1.8V.
Like @equinox, I just used the standard 3mm red from Tayda.
Interesting design / variation. I can’t even work out have the distortion sounds. Is it tighter and more compressed?We'll wait for Buggs to release the official schematic, but I'm going thru the design, and I'm really amazed how close it is to just an ordinary TS9 with the 808-mod and 100R on R14 and 10k on R15 and all pots the same, etc.
What I was expecting was some changes to the clipping circuit...check, but possible changes to the B+ tightening things up and somehow tightening up the bass, at the same time lowering the frequencies for the lower tuning without getting muddy, but no, the B+ looks to be stock!
All that was really changed from the Little Green Scream Machine, is:
1. C1 on the input goes from 22nF to 47nF
2. C4 goes from 47nF to 100nF (funny, I use 220n and 470n)
3. R8 goes from 4k7 to 1k8 (again, I've used 1k5 and 2k2, so 1k8 is right in between)
4. R6 goes from 51k to 33k, again, I lower this
5. ok, this is where is differs...the 1N4148 clippers go to the 3mm LEDs, then pin 3 of the A500k pot gets disconnected from pin 1 of the micro and go thru a pair of opposing 1N4148s with a 220k in parallel....THAT'S IT!!!
It's amazing because, I don't think the pedal sounds anything like the original TS9, with 808 MOD, nor mine!! Funny, just a few changes make such a dramatic different!
Looking forward to the official schematic!
here, I marked up the original.
We'll wait for Buggs to release the official schematic, but I'm going thru the design, and I'm really amazed how close it is to just an ordinary TS9 with the 808-mod and 100R on R14 and 10k on R15 and all pots the same, etc.
What I was expecting was some changes to the clipping circuit...check, but possible changes to the B+ tightening things up and somehow tightening up the bass, at the same time lowering the frequencies for the lower tuning without getting muddy, but no, the B+ looks to be stock!
All that was really changed from the Little Green Scream Machine, is:
1. C1 on the input goes from 22nF to 47nF
2. C4 goes from 47nF to 100nF (funny, I use 220n and 470n)
3. R8 goes from 4k7 to 1k8 (again, I've used 1k5 and 2k2, so 1k8 is right in between)
4. R6 goes from 51k to 33k, again, I lower this
5. ok, this is where is differs...the 1N4148 clippers go to the 3mm LEDs, then pin 3 of the A500k pot gets disconnected from pin 1 of the micro and go thru a pair of opposing 1N4148s with a 220k in parallel....THAT'S IT!!!
It's amazing because, I don't think the pedal sounds anything like the original TS9, with 808 MOD, nor mine!! Funny, just a few changes make such a dramatic different!
Looking forward to the official schematic!
here, I marked up the original.
I made a LTSpice model based on your schematic compared a TS808, The text above each picture explains what you are seeing.We'll wait for Buggs to release the official schematic, but I'm going thru the design, and I'm really amazed how close it is to just an ordinary TS9 with the 808-mod and 100R on R14 and 10k on R15 and all pots the same, etc.
What I was expecting was some changes to the clipping circuit...check, but possible changes to the B+ tightening things up and somehow tightening up the bass, at the same time lowering the frequencies for the lower tuning without getting muddy, but no, the B+ looks to be stock!
All that was really changed from the Little Green Scream Machine, is:
1. C1 on the input goes from 22nF to 47nF
2. C4 goes from 47nF to 100nF (funny, I use 220n and 470n)
3. R8 goes from 4k7 to 1k8 (again, I've used 1k5 and 2k2, so 1k8 is right in between)
4. R6 goes from 51k to 33k, again, I lower this
5. ok, this is where is differs...the 1N4148 clippers go to the 3mm LEDs, then pin 3 of the A500k pot gets disconnected from pin 1 of the micro and go thru a pair of opposing 1N4148s with a 220k in parallel....THAT'S IT!!!
It's amazing because, I don't think the pedal sounds anything like the original TS9, with 808 MOD, nor mine!! Funny, just a few changes make such a dramatic different!
Looking forward to the official schematic!
here, I marked up the original.
Yeah, their stuff isn't Chinese junk. No wonder China wants Taiwan, so their shit can actually work!! Yeah, good stuff. Use them.Great to know. When I test for specs regarding Taydas supplies, Im impressed. Just waiting on an order to finish a few pcb's.
your reports have me intrigued. thanks for sharing this.It's not so much about the gain as the tone. Hopefully I got the design/schematic correct (we'll see), but the pedal just sounds huge and tight. You get a little fir on the last last bit (9-10) on the drive knob, but again....tight and wide. I also A-B'ed it with one of my modded TS's where I like it. It's different. Mine still keeps the Vintage tone and characteristics, but the Mike's makes it like his amps and I think we all know how they sound! I'm thinking of including both my "Vintage" modded tube screamer and Mike's "Modern" on my pedalboard!
I can see things like the slightly larger input cap opening it up even more and making bigger. I can see adding the LEDs for slightly more gain and sizzle on the extreme end of the drive known. The thing that really I'm not understanding is what causing it to be soo much more "tighter" than a traditional TS9 or my modded unit giving it the more "Modern" tone?!?
from those godlyke descriptions, the only revealing difference seems to be:It'd be interested to know the difference between the Forton TS9 and Fortin 808. The TS9 does have the 808 MODs for increased volume. Seems from the Godlyke description there is an extra set of LEDs somewhere?!??