Pandora's Box w/ Nanolog & Relay Bypass

[DGWVI]

Just whipped this up. Had to make a few minor part substitutions, but otherwise built to doc specs. Used audio taper pots for gain and volume, didn't like the taper of the linears. Replaced the hard clippers with the Nanolog N2. I don't currently have a stock Expandora to compare it to, but it does seem to be quite a bit more dynamic, even in Forbidden Mode with the N2. Used silver mica for the compensation and feedback caps, and used tantalums for all but the 100u electrolytics. Fairchild UA308HC opamps. Don't have any 4558, but the 1458 seems to work work at least as well. Still diggin hard on those MLCCs, as you can see.



Going to add a bass pot per CDB in this thread.
Thinking I'll pair it with a Dingo equipped with a Nanolog N3, and maybe slap a Squidward in between 'em

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

I'd like to hear more about your impressions of the nanologs.

I think any dual opamp that doesn't have too much bias current will work. The tone does not depend on that device like it does for the two gain stages. One half is the peak detector for the opto and the other is the output buffer. You might want to retune the TONE control so it has more usable range.

 

[DGWVI]

I'd like to hear more about your impressions of the nanologs.

I've got another Pandora board to populate, so I'll build that one stock to compare the two. I guess I could throw a toggle into this one. It does seem to have quite a bit more swing in the Dynamics compared to the 1n4148, and adds more compression when digging in than red leds. Not sure yet if I'd say they're worth the huge price difference yet, though.
I've got a few more N2s to play with so I'll try them out in a normal Rat and opamp Muff. Still waiting on the N3s to get here, those are supposed to be more comparable to LEDs as clippers.

I think any dual opamp that doesn't have too much bias current will work. The tone does not depend on that device like it does for the two gain stages. One half is the peak detector for the opto and the other is the output buffer. You might want to retune the TONE control so it has more usable range.

I'm actually fond of the tone range as is. Pretty usable over the full sweep, though I prefer the brighter settings

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Your ears are better than mine then. I heard no difference over the top 1/3 of rotation.

 

[DGWVI]

I can definitely hear more tinny-ness over 3o'clock. It's especially noticeable when you let it ring into feedback

 

[DGWVI]

I'd like to hear more about your impressions of the nanologs.

Just tried an N2 in both the fuzz and overdrive portions of a Pacifier/ Punkifer- Didn't notice too much difference on the fuzz side beyond a bit more output volume vs the 4148s. The overdrive side was effected pretty drastically. A lot more pick sensitive if the gain knob wasn't maxed, With gain around noon, I could go from damned near clean to full distortion by just picking harder. Also doesn't seem to compress the high end as much as the 4148s. I'll try it out compared to LEDs tomorrow. I'll also try to whip up a soft clipper circuit to see how it acts there

 

[bifurcation]

Just tried an N2 in both the fuzz and overdrive portions of a Pacifier/ Punkifer- Didn't notice too much difference on the fuzz side beyond a bit more output volume vs the 4148s. The overdrive side was effected pretty drastically. A lot more pick sensitive if the gain knob wasn't maxed, With gain around noon, I could go from damned near clean to full distortion by just picking harder. Also doesn't seem to compress the high end as much as the 4148s. I'll try it out compared to LEDs tomorrow. I'll also try to whip up a soft clipper circuit to see how it acts there

If you get a chance, I'd love to hear audio clips of the two!

 

[DGWVI]

If you get a chance, I'd love to hear audio clips of the two!

I'll try to get over my anxiety and post something this week.