So I must take out TC1044, D14 and D15 and jump d14 and d15.You have 9v at the output (cathode) of D7, and 18v at the output (cathode) of D15.
If you want to keep 9v only, don't solder the TC1044, and jump D14 and D15
So I must take out TC1044, D14 and D15 and jump d14 and d15.
Nice, Thanks
First of all, thank you very much helping me, I will try all you said.Yes, you can also take out C21 and C22. And I would replace C10 with a 100u, for better filtering
Ok Thanks !!!No, this is not gonna work. Or actually it might, but it seems a bit odd to me!
But again, 18v isn't very interesting in my opinion with this circuit.
Thanks you tooThe benefit of a pedalpcb board is that it is very neat to assemble, with the pots and switches mounted on the circuit board. That usually means these boards are not easy to modify to bring in new functions or options. you can substitute parts but not easily add in extra things. If you are not a skilled builder I would suggest building the board as called for, or at most swapping out existing parts with different values. Sometimes even getting something like you are suggesting "sort-of working" will still leave you with a project that is unreliable or too noisy for you to enjoy using it.
There are other projects you can build if you want a swtichable power supply to use with other pedals that can work at dual voltages. Like this: https://edfedtalent.ibc.doi.gov/mod/scorm/player.php
I ask and if I do this wiring the green wire to IC and the blue one to PCB (taking out 1 and 8 from PCB) must work.First of all, thank you very much helping me, I will try all you said.
Just I thought this must works, if I remove 1 and 8 from PCB and get together in a wire (green) and then the blue wire I connect lug 2 of the switch to pad 1 of the PCB maybe it´s works and it´s more simple, dont you think?
Thank you again.
Just a heads up... I tried this mod, and for some reason, when I switch from 18V to 9V, capacitor C10 starts to smoke. (double checked the polarity and the power rating.)Yes, I was able to add a 9v/18v switch to this circuit without too much trouble. The only additional part is a DPDT On-On switch. I removed diodes D7 and D15 from the board and soldered them directly to the switch as shown. I soldered D14 to the board but elevated it slightly so that I could solder a jumper wire directly to its cathode lead. In 9v mode, the switch essentially bypasses the TC1044, directly connecting the 9v source to the op amps and voltage divider. In 18v mode, the switch recreates the circuit as shown in the schematic.
Also, I find that I prefer the sound of this circuit in 18v mode.
I did that on my ones and it's worksI ask and if I do this wiring the green wire to IC and the blue one to PCB (taking out 1 and 8 from PCB) must work.