Parentheses mini fuzz only half working

JulienD

New member
Hi everyone,

I've contemplated building pedals for a long time, but took the plunge only a few weeks ago.
My first two (simple) builds went smoothly, but I ran into my first non-working build yesterday with a Parentheses Mini Fuzz, that is in fact half-working.

The bypassed signal is normal, and the boost side works perfectly, but the dist side doesn't.
I only get a very feeble amount of signal bleeding through a lot of white noise with all pots maxxed out.
I therfore assume that the issue doesn't reside in the power supply or jack in & out wiring, but most likely in the pcb, footswitch or pots wiring.

A few observations of interest:
- I don't have an audio probe (and won't have the parts to build one for at least another week or so), but I have a decent DMM.
- Offboard wiring and dpdt lug solder joints are ok, as evidenced by continuity tests with the DMM.
- The signal reaches at least the first components, but I can't test caps, diodes or transistors with a DMM.
- The IC is installed the right way, and so are the transistors (although I have no way to make sure they are spec-compliant).
- I've tried to switch them around (one by one, obviously), just to make sure the right orientation was specified on the PCB, to no success. It only makes a difference for Q5 (the last transistor before the volume pot, so post-IC and post-clipping); the white noise that I had with all pots maxxed out is now gone, but the small amount of guitar signal that was bleeding through is still audible, which leads me to believe that it comes from somewhere else than the intended signal path.
- Interestingly, the signal must reach at least as far as LED D6, located in one of the two clipping branches (and therefore post-IC), since it ligths up when I hit the strings.

So my questions for you guys are:
1) does the description of the issue and/or picture of my build ring a bell for some of you ?
2) how would you proceed from there?

Thanks a lot in advance!
 

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I know my first parenthesise fuzz I had a batch of fake 308 ics so maybe try to swap it with a lm741 if you have one of those. Mine too the boost only the boost worked at first. With a 741 It fired up rigth away
 
Ah you got it as a kit :/ ... Then I would reflow the potiometers ... Half the time when I troubleshoot it's the source of the problem :p Especially the amplitude and distortion pots
 
I know my first parenthesise fuzz I had a batch of fake 308 ics so maybe try to swap it with a lm741 if you have one of those. Mine too the boost only the boost worked at first. With a 741 It fired up rigth away
That's interesting. Is there anyway to tell if the 308 I have is fake?
 
You mean add solder and make sure the connection is properly made for each lug?

Yep maybe i just don't apply enough solder when doing the pots but more than half my faulty builds are because of that. I find that applying some on both sides helps a lot.

I dunno if there's a sure way to test fake ICS but in this instance it just didn't have any output. Using the lm741 made me certain that the ic was at fault. I then went to a old electronic shop in Montreal and go some ua308, swapped the lm741 and got it working as it was intended :). The lm741 worked fine but it didn't get as dirty as a 308!
 
I'll try both, just to be sure. I'll reflow the pots connexions tomorrow and order a couple ICs off amazon or something. If plan A doesn't work out, I'll wait for plan B to arrive in the mail. Worst case scenario is that I get a couple of spare ICs!
 
Hi all. I have a similar problem.. I'm attaching my measurement on the pots (fully opened or closed). Is it normal what I measure in the two of them? When I remove the pots and measure them out of the pcb, I get the expected values..

For the IC, I guess by measuring the voltages on the legs, you could spot if there is something arriving/leaving..?
 

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Hi everyone,

I've contemplated building pedals for a long time, but took the plunge only a few weeks ago.
My first two (simple) builds went smoothly, but I ran into my first non-working build yesterday with a Parentheses Mini Fuzz, that is in fact half-working.

The bypassed signal is normal, and the boost side works perfectly, but the dist side doesn't.
I only get a very feeble amount of signal bleeding through a lot of white noise with all pots maxxed out.
I therfore assume that the issue doesn't reside in the power supply or jack in & out wiring, but most likely in the pcb, footswitch or pots wiring.

A few observations of interest:
- I don't have an audio probe (and won't have the parts to build one for at least another week or so), but I have a decent DMM.
- Offboard wiring and dpdt lug solder joints are ok, as evidenced by continuity tests with the DMM.
- The signal reaches at least the first components, but I can't test caps, diodes or transistors with a DMM.
- The IC is installed the right way, and so are the transistors (although I have no way to make sure they are spec-compliant).
- I've tried to switch them around (one by one, obviously), just to make sure the right orientation was specified on the PCB, to no success. It only makes a difference for Q5 (the last transistor before the volume pot, so post-IC and post-clipping); the white noise that I had with all pots maxxed out is now gone, but the small amount of guitar signal that was bleeding through is still audible, which leads me to believe that it comes from somewhere else than the intended signal path.
- Interestingly, the signal must reach at least as far as LED D6, located in one of the two clipping branches (and therefore post-IC), since it ligths up when I hit the strings.

So my questions for you guys are:
1) does the description of the issue and/or picture of my build ring a bell for some of you ?
2) how would you proceed from there?

Thanks a lot in advance!
The 2 wires circled need to be swapped around:
Parenthesis Mini.jpg
 
It will not fix your Issue as it just Grounds the Input in Bypass, The Led still works.
Do you have any Jfet's, ie 2N5457, 2N5458
The PF5102's could be Faulty in Q1 & Q5.
It would be helpful if you showed a Pic of the Solder side of the PCB.
 
It will not fix your Issue as it just Grounds the Input in Bypass, The Led still works.
Do you have any Jfet's, ie 2N5457, 2N5458
The PF5102's could be Faulty in Q1 & Q5.
It would be helpful if you showed a Pic of the Solder side of the PCB.
Right, it's just the power supply for the status LED, I got excited over nothing...
Unfortunately, I have zero spare parts available at hand; the only thing I could do is cannibalize a triplet of 2N5088s I have in another pedal.
Here's a pic of the solder side, let me know if it's detailed enough.
 

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Can you tell I don't have a clue about what I'm doing? :D
Joke aside, you gotta admit that the naming conventions are less-than-crystal-clear for newbies like me...
 
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2N5088's are NPN transistors not Jfet's!
The Solder on the Op Amp pins looks suspect, Reflow with Solder with Op Amp removed.
Make sure you replace Op Amp in correct direction!
Make sure those Led wires are not touching the Board at any time.
Are those 2 Pots well insulated from the PCB, They can't touch at all?
 
Will do, as well as reflow a couple of pots I was suggested, just to be sure.
I'll wrap the LED leads in duct tape, just to be safe, but I don't think they were touching anything when I last tested the circuit.
The two lower pots cannot touch the board, I've installed adhesive rubber pads on the back of their casings.

So basically, should all of the above fail, you're advising that I order a couple of PF5102, or 2N5457, or 2N5458 (as long as they're Jfets), swap them in and see what's up?
Someone also suggested that I do the same with the 308 (mine has been speculated to be a fake one by some), with a legit 308, or a ln741.
Any thoughts on that?
 
Lot of stuff coming out of China that looks like the real deal are Fakes!
Try and get some legit PF5102's & LM308N's
I would be contacting Musikding & asking where their Transistors & Opamps are coming from if your replacements fix the problem.
 
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