PCBGuitarMania Submarine Device (EQD The Depths)

MichaelW

Well-known member
This was one of the boards in the most excellent grab bag of goodies that @DGWVI sent me recently.

PCBGuitarMania has a bit of a less than stellar reputation around here (with good cause).....my own experience with their projects hasn't been great but wasn't anything as catastrophic as some other members have experienced.

But @DGWVI assured me that the ones he sent me all checked out and he had built them all. So putting aside my bias I got excited about building some of these out. First up is the Submarine Device. Basically their version of the PedalPCB Abyss, otherwise known as the EQD Depths.

It's an optical vibe pedal and a super simple one.
I've been toying on and off with the idea of building the ElectroVibe (Shin Ei's take on the Univibe) but every time I looked at the build docs it gave me a headache. There's a crap ton of components on it, and lots of mod threads, and tweaks and biasing tricks and it just hasn't been worth for me to attempt it for a sound a rarely use.

I had a retail Deja Vibe for a while that sounded really good, but after I ran out Robin Trower licks to play it kinda just sat on the shelf gathering dust until I finally sold it. Yet, everyone once I a while I still think I'd like a Univibe sound. So this project was the PERFECT answer, I didn't have to decide hahahaha.

Anyway, the EQD Depths is a optical vibe and their take on the classic Univibe circuit. It's a lot less complex than the ElectroVibe with a lot less parts.
I think it gets you about 95% of the way there to a Univibe with a lot less work and a lot less components.

The PCBGM version was well laid out and a really good project. No goofy wrong build components and misinformation or anything like that.
It's got one little tweak to it in the form of a mod to allow you to put in a toggle to control a bi-color LED to get some different sounds as an option.
I decided to skip that mod and just jumpered the toggle and built it to EQD specs with a yellow LED. @DGWVI even sent me some PCBGM 3dpt boards to go with the boards he sent me so offboard wiring was a cinch. The only substitution I made was using GL5528's instead of the recommended KE-10720's.
I have just enough KE-10720's to build out my Duo-Phase and didn't want to place yet another Tayda order just for LDR's. So I decided to take the chance that the GL5228's were close enough. And they certainly are! the pedal sounds GREAT!

Since the DC in and Ground jacks were exact opposites of PPCB boards I decided to be cute and invert the DC jack from my normal build practice (Positive to the west and ground to the east). So inverting them allowed me to have straight runs from the board to the jacks with buss wire.
Then like an idiot, when I went to go ground the jacks I spaced out on autopilot and grounded them to the east DC lug....which was now positive.

So testing it at my bench obviously didn't work...until I finally figured that out. Then I melted the DC jack getting the wires off it so I said screw it, took the board out and replaced the jack. Once correctly wired it fired tight up. As I said, it sounds really great. But as I was reviewing the build docs he mentioned experimenting with the distance between LDR and LED and getting different sounds. So I opened it back up and adjusted the LDR's to about 2mm from the LED. That one little thing has given the pedal a LOT more effect and richness. Pretty cool! The LDRs are now actually a lot closer than in the pick below.

As per the build doc's you can use a 2mm guitar pick to set the distance. (I don't have any 2mm pick so I just eyeballed it...:))

Anyway, easy build, went real quick, "relatively" low parts count for a Vibe and sounds awesome. Very glad to have this sound back in my stable.
Thanks again @DGWVI! I'm probably going to be building one of the other PCBGM boards you sent next.

I used the "stone texture" Rattle can again. I think I have a few more enclosures worth in this can, Interesting paint. I kinda like it, but after 3 pedals I'm also kinda sick of it too....heh.

IMG_3715.JPG


The LDR's are now much closer to the LED's now than in this picture. Little tiny moves in the distance of the LED to LDR can make a pretty big difference in how much effect you get. Also there is a "Throb" control that controls low end pulse. According to EQD it "comes alive with a neck pickup and some dirt". I've found this to be very true. It's a much more effective parameter using the neck pickup than bridge and more pronounced with some gain than it is clean.

IMG_3714.JPG
 
I did the bicolor LED / Toggle thing. One side didn't work. Never understood why. I read a few other persons having the same problem with their builds. So I guess you've been right avoiding it... :)
Anyway, nice work, man. Everytime I come around here I see your builds, and they always look good.
About this circuit's builder, the quality really depends on which PCB you use from him. Some worked for me. Many didn't, or at least not properly (and generally I found people online having the exact same problems with their own builds).
Back to this one, it's a nice circuit. Have fun!
 
Yah the Bi-color thing didn't make a lot of sense to me, my understanding of how these LDR driven effects work is to get as equal as possible intensity of the LED hitting the LDR's. Bi-color LED's invariably are a bit uneven. They set up the board for a Bicolor so putting in the single color offsets the LED a bit, which made it a pain to get the LDRs lined up. Anyway, it works and sounds great with the yellow LED. I'm not planning to do any more experimenting with it and calling it good:) Thanks for the kind words. Everything I know about building pedals I learned from @fig :\ :ROFLMAO:
 
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Very nice btw. I've not built a PCBGM board.

Have you noticed similar behavior with the LED/LDR spacing on other similar circuits?
I've never tried it before, but I have the sudden urge to go open up all my LDR based builds....hahhaha. Most of them are compressors. Hmmm and the Pendulum. I bet that one might benefit from getting the LDR's closer. I'll give that a try later today.
 
Very nice btw. I've not built a PCBGM board.

Have you noticed similar behavior with the LED/LDR spacing on other similar circuits?
Also, I would take a pass on PCB Guitar Mania for any circuit that @Robert also has. This one would be the Abyss. No sense in paying to have it shipping all the way from Croatia for a potentially dodgy board.
 
Very nice btw. I've not built a PCBGM board.

Have you noticed similar behavior with the LED/LDR spacing on other similar circuits?
Ok, for the sake of science, I opened up my Pendulum and General Tso pedals and moved the LDR's closer to the LED. to about 2-3mm distance.

No appreciable difference that I can tell. Maybe it's just this Vibe that it makes a difference due to the way the circuit works.
Although one would think that the same dynamic should be happening on the Pendulum. Still sounds great but it sounded great before.
Except for the gain, main that Pendulum is one loud sucker. Unity for me is around 8 o'oclock.
 
I think when you have a single LDR / LED acting as a variable resistor, especially in any circuit that has tuning, the distance is more of a lateral shift—the amount of resistance range probably stays about the same, but is either a bit higher or lower.

In a circuit (and vibes and phasers do this as as a birthright) with LDRs circled around the source, having their range of resistance closer should (this is not fact, just based on gut instinct) make the effect stronger. For my single and dual Phaser builds, I sorted through 50 LDRs to see how close I could match them, especially in similar positions for the dual build (this one still not boxed up), hoping for greater amounts of potential additive or subtractive phasing when the two sides are combined (this was where I let my imagination overlook my complete lack of understanding the way the circuit works—but I try not to let knowledge get in the way of imagination whenever possible).

Another lovely build, by the way!
 
I think when you have a single LDR / LED acting as a variable resistor, especially in any circuit that has tuning, the distance is more of a lateral shift—the amount of resistance range probably stays about the same, but is either a bit higher or lower.

In a circuit (and vibes and phasers do this as as a birthright) with LDRs circled around the source, having their range of resistance closer should (this is not fact, just based on gut instinct) make the effect stronger. For my single and dual Phaser builds, I sorted through 50 LDRs to see how close I could match them, especially in similar positions for the dual build (this one still not boxed up), hoping for greater amounts of potential additive or subtractive phasing when the two sides are combined (this was where I let my imagination overlook my complete lack of understanding the way the circuit works—but I try not to let knowledge get in the way of imagination whenever possible).

Another lovely build, by the way!
Oh man, you just pointed me to another rabbit hole with sorting LDR's for my Duo-Phase build hahahaha.

Good thing I only have 14 K-10270's. The build need 12 of them so not much sorting to do, I'm using what I got and hoping for the best!
 
Awesome looking build as always. I used that same Ldr type on my the depths build, but played around running a resistors across the legs to act in parallel and was pretty happy with the results. I went with a 330k but had good results with some larger values too if you decide to tweak. Now I’m curious to open mine up and play with distancing pretty sure mine are pushed up against the bulb. The layout of that board looks super clean.
 
Awesome looking build as always. I used that same Ldr type on my the depths build, but played around running a resistors across the legs to act in parallel and was pretty happy with the results. I went with a 330k but had good results with some larger values too if you decide to tweak. Now I’m curious to open mine up and play with distancing pretty sure mine are pushed up against the bulb. The layout of that board looks super clean.
Wait, you put resistors across of the legs of the LDR's? in parallel? or the LEDs? That's interesting. It sounds darn good stock to me.
 
I put the across the legs of the ldrs. So it’s like a parallel resistor. Essentially just prevents the Ldr from going beyond value of the parallel resistor.
 
I put the across the legs of the ldrs. So it’s like a parallel resistor. Essentially just prevents the Ldr from going beyond value of the parallel resistor.
Ahhhh gotcha. Interesting and too deep for me.....hahahaha. So would it be the same difference by controlling the intensity of the LED?
 
Yah the Bi-color thing didn't make a lot of sense to me, my understanding of how these LDR driven effects work is to get as equal as possible intensity of the LED hitting the LDR's. Bi-color LED's invariably are a bit uneven. They set up the board for a Bicolor so putting in the single color offsets the LED a bit, which made it a pain to get the LDRs lined up. Anyway, it works and sounds great with the yellow LED. I'm not planning to do any more experimenting with it and calling it good:) Thanks for the kind words. Everything I know about building pedals I learned from @fig :\ :ROFLMAO:
While building this last week I realized there is a way to get a regular LED to line up straight with this layout. I’m sure it’s been noticed but I haven’t seen it mentioned.

Put the anode leg in the outside right hole and the cathode leg in the outside left hole and get it to the height you want. Solder it in but don’t trim the excess legs sticking out the bottom of the board yet. Take the excess cathode leg and bend it over to the center LED hole and solder it in. Then just jumper the center and right empty switch lugs and you’re good to go.
 
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