Ranger Mind Blown…

Dan0h

Well-known member
Ok, so for the entirety of my guitar life I’ve thought who the fuck wants to boost their treble? Yuck! And then I learn the “treble booster” doesn’t actually boost the treble it boosts the mids! And usually cuts the treble.
@caiofilipini In reference to some tasty transistors I posted said “Tack that 2N414 hFE 68 into a Rangemaster-style booster and be done with life!”. Holy shit was he right. This thing in front of any of my other pedals, or just amp alone, transforms them into insanity great arena rock huge tones. I’m not sure what trip I’ve been on lately but the last half dozen builds have all been mind opening and paradigm shattering of my previous opinions about guitar tones.
Range Master clone from Barry over at guitarpcb, recommended by a fellow pedalpcb guru. And yes I put a 1590a pedal into a 1590bb enclosure with a spaghetti nest of wire and it sounds tits.
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Preverb

Active member
This is the P.U.R.P.??? I started using an EP boost after I discovered I liked it in my HX Stomp (now gone).
Did you use an EP boost in the past to compare how the rangemaster style boost is better?

 

Dan0h

Well-known member
This is the P.U.R.P.??? I started using an EP boost after I discovered I liked it in my HX Stomp (now gone).
Did you use an EP boost in the past to compare how the rangemaster style boost is better?

This is the PURP. I’ve never used a booster before so I have no reference point, well there is a booster in parentheses pedal but I believe the frequency is flat because it doesn’t do what this does.
 

andare

Active member
Not only is Santa not real but treble boosters boost the mids?
Way to ruin my childhood. What's next, whales are not fish and peanuts aren't nuts?
 

Big Monk

Well-known member
Not only is Santa not real but treble boosters boost the mids?

Well, to be fair, treble boosters are frequency boosts and boost the section of the frequency spectrum dictated by the input cap.

Make no doubt about it: Stick a 0.0022 uf input cap in there and its gonna be a treble boost!
 

Mcknib

Well-known member
Looking good

I particularly like what you've done with the enclosure and the dress nut in the 1st pic, it just finishes the look off

I'd agree I've been on a mad build every version known to man recently, latest one just completed is the Throbak Strangemaster

I'd forgotten how good they sound for such a simple circuit
 

DAJE

Active member
I made the AION version - the Radian - which has a 3 way switch. Treble boost, mid boost, and flat boost. I like the flat boost best, the treble boost is nice for a mid 60s style sound, and I find the mid boost makes things a bit too muddy.

But yes, great things they are, I see them more as a Germanium overdrive than a boost.
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
Looking good

I particularly like what you've done with the enclosure and the dress nut in the 1st pic, it just finishes the look off

I'd agree I've been on a mad build every version known to man recently, latest one just completed is the Throbak Strangemaster

I'd forgotten how good they sound for such a simple circuit
Thanks. I got a bag of these dress nuts and have really liked the look they add.
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
I made the AION version - the Radian - which has a 3 way switch. Treble boost, mid boost, and flat boost. I like the flat boost best, the treble boost is nice for a mid 60s style sound, and I find the mid boost makes things a bit too muddy.

But yes, great things they are, I see them more as a Germanium overdrive than a boost.
Agreed, the wild thing is alone there is a small amount of drive but in front of any other pedal it really kicks the shit into high gear drive wise. It’s a very interesting pedal.
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
You should pop a DPDT On/Off/On switch in there for the input cap. That will make it a lot more versatile.
There is a switch. It’s in the box behind the Fs. I tried all three selection options and love the one it’s on so I didn’t feel a need to have it poking out the top. :)
 

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Big Monk

Well-known member
There is a switch. It’s in the box behind the Fs. I tried all three selection options and love the one it’s on so I didn’t feel a need to have it poking out the top. :)

Ninja switch!

Which cap did you settle on then?
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
Ninja switch!

Which cap did you settle on then?
Surprisingly the less bass sounding one of the two. 22n and 47n. I would have bet money I would have picked more bass all day long but in this circuit with my set up less is more. I’m not sure which one of those values is the less bass one.
 

Big Monk

Well-known member
Surprisingly the less bass sounding one of the two. 22n and 47n. I would have bet money I would have picked more bass all day long but in this circuit with my set up less is more. I’m not sure which one of those values is the less bass one.

I often gravitate to the RM configured as a mids booster as well. I usually do 6.8 nF/22 nF/150 nF.

In your case, 22 nF is the "less bass one" but they both fall into the mid boost range.
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
I often gravitate to the RM configured as a mids booster as well. I usually do 6.8 nF/22 nF/150 nF.

In your case, 22 nF is the "less bass one" but they both fall into the mid boost range.
Good to know. I followed the parts list. If I make another one on Perf board I think I’d do the 6.8 and 22 option just see what even a little less would sound like. Thanks for the lesson on caps.
 

Big Monk

Well-known member
Good to know. I followed the parts list. If I make another one on Perf board I think I’d do the 6.8 and 22 option just see what even a little less would sound like. Thanks for the lesson on caps.

The original RM had a 5 nF input cap. That gets pretty trebly unless you are British in the 60s or have a darker sounding amp. Still very useful in many cases. I always split the difference a little and use 6.8 nF, as it gives some of the biting treble of the original but starts to lean on the mids a bit.
 
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