Most of the caps on that board (all of the square boxes) are film.
The question of which caps to use has been discussed on these forums so many times... but seeing as you are new around here, I'll cut you a little slack.
MY preferred caps are:
up to 470pF: MLCC, silver-mica, monolithic ceramic. I try to avoid disk ceramics because they tend to be microphonic and have low reliability
470pF to 1uF: film
1uF to 47uF: tantalum
22uF on up: aluminum
These are guidelines, not hard and fast rules. Some boards call for 1uF MLCC caps.
Silver mica is as close as we'll get to a "perfect" capacitor. The downside is they are relatively expensive and above 22nF, the size becomes an issue. Even the lower value ones are a tight squeeze on these boards.
Film caps are low leakage, reliable and transparent. Some brands are expensive.
Tantalum caps are low leakage, transparent, smaller, higher reliability and more expensive than aluminum. Some people call them "harsh," but that's the transparency revealing the harshness elsewhere in the circuit.
Aluminum caps can be leaky, which is acceptable for power supply filters but bad for the audio path. They also exhibit dielectric absorption that can muddy the sound.
Vintage pedals used what was cheap and available at the time. Some Boutique builders use the same (crappy) parts because they are replicating an old design or because the perceived mojo helps sell pedals.
Whatever caps you buy, their outline and lead spacing has to be compatible with the board. There are many examples on the Build Reports forum of failing to follow this guideline, including some of my own builds.
These are my opinions and observations, YMMV.