Same old parentheses fuzz octave issue.

J

jcrews

Member
I dug thorugh some older threads but most are for the older board. I used 1N34A diodes across the board in D1 D2 and D8 and D9.

It seems like I have the same issue. (no octave effect and turning up the octave knob cuts volume)

I just didn't see where we landed because I'm not using old school russian stuff. I grabbed what was sold as GE 1N34A, but they look just like my silicon diodes. Pic attached.

My first guess is to swap those around. I'm assuming if they are marked backwards from what the circuit calls for, it wouldn't matter in the clippin section because all that matters is they be installed in opposite directions?

I'm going to try that first and report back. If there's any other reason for the the whole "octave knob kills the output" issue everyone seems to have.... I'm all ears :)

Thanks,

p.s. everything else works and sounds flawless. Love the rat and the boost. Really wanna hear the octave as that's the only "new" thing for me on this one.

IMG_6041.jpg
 
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update:

i swapped in some new 1N34A's into D1 and D2 and oriented them backwards to the screen print. Black band facing down instead of up.

It's doing almost exactly the same. No octave sound and turning up the octave kills the output as you go..... But now it's def also bringing up a hum that's louder as the output volume drops. So im assuming i had these right and it's something else?


Crap.

Any advice?
IMG_6054.jpg
 
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Have you visually verified that all of the parts are the correct value/part number and all solder joints are good? Check the ends of the ribbon cables, they like to break if flexed too many times.

Those look like Silicon diodes, which will work fine, but D1 & D2 need to be oriented correctly. They are correct in the top picture. They are backwards in the bottom picture. Correct the orientation of D1 & D2 as required and after that, resist the urge to unsolder stuff until we know what's wrong.

Do the Boost and Distortion functions work?

If you measure these voltages, we can see the state of health of the Octave section.
Q3-E
Q3-C
Q4-E
 
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Yeah the whole pedal works great just not the octave. I have flipped them back the right way. This seems to happen in about 50% of these builds. I ordered the Mojo russian DE9's but everything else has been verified and tested. As soon as i get back to my notebook I'll post voltages. The markings on the screenprint were fixed for V2, but i thought.... even if my diodes had the cathode on the wrong end, I wouldn't know without switching them because they would still function fine for clipping in D8 and D9.

Had I researched a bit more, and read the 10+ threads about this issue, i might have skipped this one.

When my pack of russian fancy pants diodes show up, I'll socket all 4 diode spots so I can swap em in and out until i find some that work without having to take the thing out every time.
 
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Reviving a dead thread.

UPDATE: I went back in and socketed both germ resistor spots (since nothing else was giving me any trouble)
As y'all predicted I busted BOTH ribbon cables doing this (last time I'll ever use them).

I have a bag of fancy russian diodes in front of me, a properly wired parenthesis fuzz and the octave is still doing the same thing:
No octave sound and the more i turn it up the lower the output gets.

Can i get any guidance here? I have my meter out so I'm happy to take voltages from anywhere and post them. I have triple checked all my work and I can't find anything wrong. I have read the 20+ threads about this, and I'm assuming i have a dead transistor somewhere OR i didn't "measure voltage" and match my diodes.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The rat and the boost sound SO good. I really wanna hear the octave. I already have rats and boosts, so this is kinda why i built this one.
 
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Ha. Dammit. I was under the impression it WANTED to see leaky russian diodes like the Original. Any specific diode number to try? I have quite a variety on hand. I'll get the measurements. Just power to the box first? Will i get diff reading with the effect engaged/disengaged?
 
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ok right now as it stands (with the leaky russians) im getting:
Q3 E: 8.9 volts
Q4 E: 3.8 volts

I'll toss some BAT-41's in there now and edit this post with their numbers

EDIT: q3 E: 8.9 volts
q4 E: 3.7 volts
 
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I will check all of that right now. Man, you know this circuit real well, Thanks for all this quick help. I surely appreciate it.


p.s. I always wrap it up if it's under the board :cool:
 
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I'm about to unbolt it all again. Here's a shot just to make sure your eyes see something mine don't. I went over them with the meter up top and they all read right.

64487181761__7819E87A-9A0F-4805-9A80-3E0AF8339757.jpg
 
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oh daing. I just noticed the pots are switched. Jesus. I feel ashamed. That ain't my only issue but I'll fix that too. What voltage should I be seeing in q2 b?
 
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I have it all out now so i need to solder the DC jack back in but I'll give you readings on R6 in an edit. yeah i didn't figure the 100k and 50 switch caused this, but while i have it all out :-/ might as well. I checked all my joints and i did find a leg off of Q3 i didn't trim short enough bend over and BARELY touching a leg from Q2. Gonna clean all that up, swap boost and octave pots and try again.


R6 was 4.7k instead of 47k. These eyes are trash

I promise im not usually this bad at this


edit: i used standard pot dust cap covers on the middle three pots under the board
 
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Chuck D. Bones said:
BINGO.



We all should; it's the #1 board in the Troubleshooting forum. Not all that hard to build, but it seems to attract noobs. I'm not calling you a noob.



Approx 800mV.
Click to expand...
Honestly..... I feel like a noob right now. And I've got a nearly a hundred builds done. Sometimes, you just make a bunch of dumb mistakes at once.

It's funny.... I've built some wild stuff with a million parts in tighter layouts, and this basic rat thing is giving me fits.....

Thanks again.
 
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