Sorcerer Distortion Drops Signal...

Coda

Well-known member
I just built the Sorcerer Distortion, and it doesn’t work. I get bypass, but no effect. I traced the signal and found that it dropped at C1. I replaced C1, and continued to trace the signal. A few pieces later I went back to C1, and the signal was dropped again. What may cause this? I’m working on pics now...
 
The trace looks fine and the value of R4 is correct...
 

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when you replaced C1, did you check to see if you had signal there after the new capacitor was in place? and THEN when you checked it again later there was no signal there? or is it possible that even after you replaced the capacitor you had no signal at one side of C1?

look at the parts the trace is supposed to connect to make sure you have continuity between the parts --- use your DMM to make sure that one side of C1 is connecting to R5, R4, and to Q1. If those are all connected, then check the resistance between ground and Q1 leg 2 to make sure it is in the ballpark for the value of R4. Also check the voltage on Q1 pin 2 when the pedal is powered on.

if you are using sockets for the transistors, make sure you have solid connections for all of the legs.
 
When I first replaced C1 I had signal on both sides. A few mins later I didn’t. I’ll do the continuity test and report back. I am suspicions of Q1, since it doesn’t feel flush in the socket. I couldn’t find a data sheet on the listed transistor to compare my replacement.
 
Are you subbing a different transistor than called for in the build doc? If so, what are you using?

I usually will put a light coating of solder on the legs for a transistor that is going into a socket. And after I confirm a build is working I may solder the middle leg of the transistor to the socket to hold it in place. easy enough later to heat up that connection if you need to remove the transistor.

this link seems to have a datasheet for Q1 for your build, although I did not try to open the PDF. https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=CV7351
 
Are you subbing a different transistor than called for in the build doc? If so, what are you using?

I usually will put a light coating of solder on the legs for a transistor that is going into a socket. And after I confirm a build is working I may solder the middle leg of the transistor to the socket to hold it in place. easy enough later to heat up that connection if you need to remove the transistor.

this link seems to have a datasheet for Q1 for your build, although I did not try to open the PDF. https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=CV7351

I am using a 2n1304. That site lists the CV7351, but there is no data.
 
the datasheets are in the link above to the pdf files for cv7351. not sure if they have whatever data you are hoping to find, but they are there. other folks have subbed the 2n1304 for the cv7351. Have you used your meter to sort out that your trace is good and that you have good connections for Q1? You can check for continuity between the legs of Q1 and the parts on the PCB. Try moving Q1 around a bit while you are checking to see if the continuity fluctuates. Have you checked the voltage at Q1?

are you using j201s in your build? if so, where did you get them? they have been out of production long enough that getting good ones can be hit or miss, especially from unknown sellers.
 
R1 and R2 have continuity with the input, but nothing when I hit C1. I am using 2n5457’s from PedalHacker. Q1 is .21 on both emitter and collector.
 
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the datasheets are in the link above to the pdf files for cv7351. not sure if they have whatever data you are hoping to find, but they are there. other folks have subbed the 2n1304 for the cv7351. Have you used your meter to sort out that your trace is good and that you have good connections for Q1? You can check for continuity between the legs of Q1 and the parts on the PCB. Try moving Q1 around a bit while you are checking to see if the continuity fluctuates. Have you checked the voltage at Q1?

are you using j201s in your build? if so, where did you get them? they have been out of production long enough that getting good ones can be hit or miss, especially from unknown sellers.
Also, everything in those data sheet has 8 pins, not 3 leads.
 
So I decided to ditch the sockets for Q1 since it was pretty loose. I think I killed the pcb. Pads don’t look well at all. Looks like this pedal isn’t meant to be.
 
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