SOLVED STFU Noise Gate + Buffer Not Working

[FamousAmos]

Hello,

I'm trying to get a lectric fx stfu noise gate + an AMZ buffer/splitter to work in one enclosure and am failing, please help lol.

I am unfortunately not getting the led to light up, nor am I getting any signal passing through the pedal on either output jack. I do get hum/signal buzz if I touch the footswitch pads

I have already replaced the IC's, transistor as well as the dc jack.

Any ideas where to start on this one?

 

[BuddytheReow]

Confirm both circuits are getting power. If not, i would double check the DC jack board. It looks like it's making contact with the enclosure and shorting out. Does it work in bypass?

 

[FamousAmos]

It's a lumberg jack, there's no metal of it touching the enclosure, nor is any metal of the enclosure touching the dc splitter board. I tested and get power on the two incoming prongs as well as power on each of the two splits.

No signal passes through with the pedal on or off (just tapping the foot switch guessing without an indicator led)

 

[FamousAmos]

Here's the switch board as well ..I'm pretty sure I have it wired right, but maybe I'm wrong?

I have the pedal in jack tip wired to the 'IT' pad, and the in jacks sleeve wired to the '-S' on the IT side.

The the 'OT' (blue wire) is the out that runs to the in on the buffer board. The 'S' pad on the OT side is running to the sleeve of output jack #2.

 

[BuddytheReow]

Confirm continuity on the switch. Check that on bypass mode there is a signal that goes from in to out.

 

[FamousAmos]

So I m not getting continuity on the in out pads of the switch or the in out pads of the board...maybe that switch is the culprit?

I actually went ahead and decided to remove the buffer portion of the circuit until I have the main noise gate board figured out. Here's updated shots of the wiring/setup, rewired the switch to board already, still no luck White is the in, blue is the out.

 

[BuddytheReow]

Perhaps the switch board was mounted upside down? Just spitballing here

 

[FamousAmos]

From lectric fx: Please install pcb onto 3pdt with the lectric-fx.com text facing up where you can read it, and the square pad is bottom left.

 

[BuddytheReow]

The switch may be the culprit, but chances are low. You’ll need to check the switch lugs for continuity. Look in the switch tutorial thread in The Test Kitchen here for further explanation. Replacing the switch should be your last option since it will be a real PITA to take out without compromising the board.

 

[FamousAmos]

Well it actually is the switch. I derped and did not realize the lug orientation & branding direction is different than on my usual go-to's (gorva or LMS soft clicks) and apparently I have the board oriented 90 degrees the wrong way. I get continuity on these pairs

 

[BuddytheReow]

Attempt to desolder the switch and orient it correctly. Take your time. This will be a big pain. Make sure you've got a good solder sucker and wick. Worst case scenario, you'll toast the board and have to wire a new switch manually.

 

[FamousAmos]

Lol I'm just going to do a new switch and not even fight with cleaning it up and attempting to salvage it.

 

[FamousAmos]

Just an update, got the new footswitch PCB today, slapped it on a new switch and the pedal is now functional. Thanks all.