Tayda UV Printing

SYLV9ST9R

Well-known member
Did you vectorize an existing image or did you make the snake directly from vectors? It looks quite detailed.
Is there such a thing as a template with this borders/input-output indicators/negative pole info?
I used the Image Trace function in Illustrator. You sometimes have to play with the advanced option, and do some cleanup, but I had good results with complex graphics.
 

SYLV9ST9R

Well-known member
Has anyone ever had a pedal printed without vectorizing the image first? If you place the image (created in photoshop with correct dimensions) and save your pdf in illustrator, Im wondering how it would turn out in the end 🧐
If I remember, someone did that in the big UV thread. I just vectorize my images by default, especially if I'm going to cut parts of it for superimposed text, holes, etc.
 

Bobblybook

New member
Has anyone ever had a pedal printed without vectorizing the image first? If you place the image (created in photoshop with correct dimensions) and save your pdf in illustrator, Im wondering how it would turn out in the end 🧐
It doesn't.. work. The printer requires vector instructions to actually print the lines properly. You can see examples of people forgetting to vectorise text etc, often it just doesn't come out at all.. other times it shows glitchy lines etc. But it never actually works. You must vectorise!
 

Ariel

New member
Do you guys have any examples of gloss varnish, matte varnish and no varnish of some of your builds with tayda's uv printing? I'm considering if I need it.
 
Holy turds. I just used Adobe Illustrator to vectorize a Magic the Gathering card and it turned the entire thing into a set of vectors. That's INSANE.
 

jeffwhitfield

Well-known member
Technically speaking, you can have bitmaps one your print jobs. The problem is that there’s no way to determine how they’ll look. Could end up looking super pixelated, grainy, or just like plain shit. That’s why it’s best to avoid bitmaps alt and stick with straight vector artwork. The printer has a much easier time and Results are much easier to predict.

BTW, I’m working on a video tutorial on this topic. Hope to have something up on YouTube soon.
 

Bricksnbeatles

Well-known member
Finally placed an order for some UV prints. One of my gloss layers was missing though (I ordered 4, only 3 showed up in the Uv print tool, so I sent an email about that). Fingers crossed that they come out good 😬
 

k3150

New member
Had a quick question about this UV printing. I am attempting to try and do this for the first time but I am confused about the measurements. The template for UV printing is 62mm x 117mm, but the the drill template seems to be more like 66mm x 120mm. How do you measure where the drill holes are going to be on the art file? If you use the same measurements from the center on the UV print file as you use on the drill template, will they match? This is probably the case I just wanted to see if anyone could confirm this. Thanks!
 

SYLV9ST9R

Well-known member
Had a quick question about this UV printing. I am attempting to try and do this for the first time but I am confused about the measurements. The template for UV printing is 62mm x 117mm, but the the drill template seems to be more like 66mm x 120mm. How do you measure where the drill holes are going to be on the art file? If you use the same measurements from the center on the UV print file as you use on the drill template, will they match? This is probably the case I just wanted to see if anyone could confirm this. Thanks!
Yes, when I prepare a file for UV printing in Illustrator, I actually copy the PPCB template on the Tayda artboard and center it vertically and horizontally. It lines up great with the predrilled enclosures, and if I'm using the custom drill option, I measure from the illustrator file (but it should basically be the same measurements from center as the PPCB template).
You have to account for some tolerance in the service though (I think it's 1mm for the UV print).

Capture d’écran 2021-12-07 à 07.24.12.png
 
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