The BuddyBoard

BuddytheReow

Breadboard Baker
For those of you not really that interested or TL/DR, this is just a breadboarding platform that came out of my head and inspired by PedalPCB's Protoboard.

Now, for the fuller story.

I had a Protoboard since about last summer around around the time the Test Kitchen finally opened up here. Originally, I was breadboarding on a few pieces of cardboard duct taped together. Take a look at my older Buddy's Breadboard posts and you'll see what I mean. Once the Protoboard arrive it was a definite upgrade from what I had. Multiple voltages, pot mounting hardware, all offboard wiring fully integrated, etc. But, it was still a breadboard once all was said and done. You have to enjoy breadboarding to appreciate the Protoboard. If breadboarding is not your thing, that's cool; more people here would rather solder than breadboard when given a choice. For me, breadboarding accomplished a few things: it's a way for me to try a circuit out before committing to solder, experiment with any particular mods I may have seen out there, going back to basics and figuring out how a certain part works, or just throwing some circuit Legos on there and see what happens.

For the record, I'm not here to bash the Protoboard in any way, shape, or form. I think it's a great product, very compact, and ticks a lot of the basic needs for guitar circuit nerds out there. The protoboard IMO has a few flaws or maybe I should call them gaps in the design. Many times when I've tested and played through a circuit and decide to wrap it up for the day I sometime forget to turn the darned thing off. If a battery was hooked up to it then you'll probably have a dead or close to dying battery by the next day. I think a LED indicator should be mounted on it next to the main power switch. After I've spent a considerable amount of time putting a circuit together I'll walk over to my amp, plug in a guitar, and hear just a clean signal come through. A LED indicator should be on the Active/Bypass switch as well to make it more idiot proof. Or at least Buddy proof, lol.

Third. For my own personal reasons and due to the layout of my basement, I wanted the Protoboard to have a test function. Many times I'll think I've completed a circuit, get up off my chair, pick up my board, walk it over to the amp, plug the amp in, plug the guitar in, turn the amp on, sling the guitar around my neck, turn the volume on my guitar up, engage the power switch, engage the bypass switch, and then I'll hear nothing. What? I thought everything looked good just a minute ago. Ugh. Let me take it back to the bench and figure out what's going on. What I SHOULD have on my bench is a cable to connect to my phone or something just to put some signal into the circuit just to check that it's alive. But sadly I don't. So, a needed feature for the Protoboard IMO is a simple wave generator just to throw a signal of some kind with the ability to alter the frequency and volume.

Fourth. It's inevitable when breadboarding or even soldering up a PCB that you'll need to take the time to troubleshoot. Is everything getting power that should be getting power? Where is my audio signal dying in the circuit? The workaround for the former is to take out a DMM, hook the black lead up to ground, engage the power, then start poking away. The audio probe can be solved simply by taking the output jumper and touching it on the part in question. This also means you should have some kind of signal going through the input. See point number 3 again.

Fifth. When I breadboard a circuit from a schematic, I work from left to right with the left side the input section and the right side the output section. The protoboard has all the 'plug and play' features on the left hand side which is fine 98% of the time. The problem for me is when I have to reach all the way over with a jumper wire to the edge of my breadboard and sometimes bends or knocks a component out. Not Earth shattering, but annoying at times. For me, I think the output plugs should be on the right hand side of the breadboard.

Ok. Now that that's out of the way I want to talk about the story behind my project. It all started when @Chuck D. Bones posted in his boneyard forum a Mini Tube Circuit. This really piqued my interest simply because I can play around with certain tubes at a non-lethal voltage level, but they require more than 18V which is the max that the protoboard can provide. I think Chuck and Fig were both using a bench supply at the time when messing around with this circuit. Call it FOMO, but I wanted to see what all the fuss was about and I didn't feel like pulling the trigger on a bench supply. The Mini Tube circuit uses 26V according to the schematic. This project sat on the back burner for quite some time.

About 6 weeks ago or so the itch started creeping up again to breadboard this circuit and I started looking into a bench supply to see if they were affordable and can fit on my bench. The cheap ass in me was hesitant to buy it and Fig offered to donate an extra one of his to the cause. Fig is a pretty cool dude. Fast forward about a week and I have the bench supply along with a few other goodies and am playing around with it and trying a few small circuits out. One of the goodies is a cheap LED volt meter that I thought was pretty darned cool and wanted to incorporate one on my protoboard for when I plug a battery into it to see when I need to replace it. I don't really use batteries a whole lot until I made my pedalboard. Then one day I have a shower thought of "Why don't you build your own breadboard platform?" Thus the quest began... You can read about the whole experience/process here but I'll try to sum up.

My main problem when I pull a project out of my ass is that I usually start making before I do some real planning. My planning consisted of "how to I hook up the various switches" or "what parts do I have in my inventory to make this?" I should have been asking the more appropriate questions such as "What parts of the protoboard work and what parts do I need to work on?" or "What parts should I have in order to make this?". I have some basic woodworking tools and experience plus pedal making skills, so I knew this project would be possible. All that being said, this project went through not one, not two, but THREE different revisions. It was interesting breadboarding some of these circuits before committing to solder so I can breadboard other things... uh, what?

Anyways, huge should out to @fig and @Chuck D. Bones for their help on making this project possible. I'll show off the actual project below, though it still needs a paint job.
 
OK. Now for the actual build.

First, this board has the ability to use 2 or even 3 breadboards on it. The bottom one can be replaced with a stripboard pot mount module (the one I made can support 5 pots). I also made room above the breadboards for an additional stripboard module that uses 2 dpdt switches and 3 potentiometers. That one will be a bit more permanent on this board, but it's still mounted with sticky tack.

On the left hand side are the various voltages to plug into just like the Protoboard. It has, 9v, -9v, 5v, 4.5v, 18v, 26v, and ground. THeres an additional SAG control which brings down the voltage from 9 all the way down to about 1.7v which is close to a regular one cell battery. There are a few circuits out there that utilize this voltage and the SAG control is the red knob. Also in this section is a TEST plug. This is the output for a signal generator that produces a square or triangle wave with adjustable frequency and volume.

Now for the enclosure. Starting from the left is a low battery indicator for when I plug a 9v battery in. In reality I probably won't use a whole lot of batteries, but you never know. The next switch is a power supply selector with LED indicator. I can plug in my bench supply using some banana plugs or the simple 2.1mm plug used for my other pedals. The next 3 are the TEST signal injector: Frequency, selectable wave form (I used an on off on switch to turn the signal off to the output plug, and volume. The next switch is to engage the probe or test features of this circuit. Depending on which power supply is plugged in, either the volt meter or the low battery circuit gets engaged: when the bench supply is plugged in the volt meter turns on. WHen the other power supply is plugged in, the low battery circuit goes on. The second to last switch from the right is the probe selector and is only workable when the previous switch is engaged. WIth it I can use the probe (thats the plug all the way on the right to plug a DMM lead into) to alter between an audio probe or the volt meter. I thought it was neat at least. The last switch is the active bypass switch with a LED indicator to make this a bit more Buddy proof.

Of course, for me, while breadboarding I want the input on the left and the output on the right. Solder, wire, and some hot glue did the trick.

Since this is all hardwired and utilizing stripboard, the wiring is a bit of a mess and I tried to keep in on the neater side.

Now, I need to go breadboard something cool. Thanks for sticking with me til the end. If you skipped all the way to here, that's cool too since you just want to see some pics. Enjoy!

BuddytheReow

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I agree with most of your opinions on the protoboard and although I wasn't paying a ton of attention to your development thread besides skimming it when there was a new reply - I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. I call my reluctance to breadboard - despite knowing how useful it is - an inertia to overcome, and for me personally the ppcb protoboard was the first breadboarding setup that reduced that inertia significantly, but it still is there. And part of it is there because of some of the things you've identified. And because of that, it seems like it will be awesome for you moving forward.

I just browsed through your thread and now I am so tempted to build something similar - there's some awesome little circuit snippets there, which I do not really need bahahahaha
 
@finebyfine I appreciate the feedback. If you need some pointers either send me a DM or wander into the Test Kitchen. Like soldering up a circuit, once you get one to work it becomes a rabbit hole. Some of the addons of my board are just for me, but of course others are more than welcome to use them.
 
This is super cool. I'm of the "pre breadboard" perspective but I can appreciate what you've done here. I'm kind of scared of what "post breadboard acquisition" me is going to look like. A bit nervous that I'll never make it back out of my basement. Thankfully I can safely live vicariously right here.
 
This is perfect... Well done!
I am trying to build one myself at the moment, with your test tone circuit, charge pump and the audio probe/dmm.
I have all the parts together but I am struggling with the wiring at the moment.
Could you give us a simple wiring layout for the toggle switches and the different sections???
 
This is perfect... Well done!
I am trying to build one myself at the moment, with your test tone circuit, charge pump and the audio probe/dmm.
I have all the parts together but I am struggling with the wiring at the moment.
Could you give us a simple wiring layout for the toggle switches and the different sections???
I’ve got some hand drawn pictures somewhere if that helps. I’ll see if I can find it. Keep in mind there are extras on here (switching between power sources, type of wave for signal generator, etc). I’ll get back to you on this
 
This is awesome! I am in a similar situation, I love my protoboard but the designer in me wants to make a few workflow improvements. I designed a mini-protoboard which takes four pots and a half-size breadboard, but there's only so much you can do on there..

I have come to the same conclusions as you with regard to feature set, though I wouldn't have the battery portion. The other thing I have on my mind is to use a single power pin connected to a rotary switch, with -9V on a separate pin far away from the positive power pin(s). Let's just say, some components don't enjoy -9V when you're testing between 9/18V for a pedal!

That, and duplicate IO pins on both sides of the board. You never know where your breadboard journey ends up!

I love the audio probe and test tone stuff, I usually have a looper attached but it's always a space hog.

The other thing I've thought about is an integrated amp with a tiny speaker, that may be a bit too much.
 
This was the first effect I built, and started all this madness. Not very well thought out, and made from whatever I could find in the junk pile. I did like the idea of a custom proto-board station though, and you’re making me want to revisit the idea.
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This is perfect... Well done!
I am trying to build one myself at the moment, with your test tone circuit, charge pump and the audio probe/dmm.
I have all the parts together but I am struggling with the wiring at the moment.
Could you give us a simple wiring layout for the toggle switches and the different sections???
I do have some drawing, but they’re wrong since I had to fix some of the connections in the go. But, I can explain here. You will need to know how switches work to be able to connect the dots and I did a write up of them in the test kitchen.

All the switches are dpdt or 3pdt. With almost every switch, one of the poles is used to turn on a LED. The power switch switches between a bench supply or the standard barrel plug. The low battery indicator is wired to the ground of the barrel plug and hot is connected to the power of the main switch. This means that it only turns on when the barrel power is selected. Whichever power is selected the outsourcing goes to the main power board outside of the enclosure. Here, there are multiple voltages as well as a SAG control that are used to power various circuits. The next 3 controls are for the wave generator itself and the output goes to a TEST pin on the board. This is independent of all the other switches except power. The wave selector uses a 3pdt. The test switch severs the output signal connection and connects power to the voltage meter when engaged. Then, the probe switch switches between using the DMM lead as either an audio probe going to output or as the test lead for the voltage meter. The bypass switch is kind of self explanatory. Does this help? If you really want, I can try to draw something on my computer.
 
Thanx a lot! I guess I complete the separate boards first (charge pump, test tone generator) and do the simple wiring, then I will get back to the switches... Your explanation definitely helps here, if I rum into some problems, I will get back to you😬
 
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